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Thunderbird Club

Yep.

Ever see Avatar? Get your 'Bird, bro. Mine was not expensive, but it's a real player, sounds great. When I can afford it I want a Classic Pro IV. Not today, but... and I'll always have my Blackbird, mods and all.
Seems the Epi Classic IV's come up frequently in the $200 - 250 range and they're solid players and solid values. I just picked up another one (my 3rd, whole story, with photos, soon...) for $200. It takes IMO a very modest investment these days to have a solid, good sounding good playing instrument. It really blows me away how good a bass you can get for a few hundred. Doesn't have to be expensive.

I mean, my other gig basses are Rickenbackers, which I would think would be similar, but I guess not.
Always thought that Ric's were at the same level looks wise, sound wise, cool wise etc. Ric's and T-birds together interchangeably is a pretty bad ass combo IMO.
 
I will grant that I have an unnatural love of the Matsumoku made basses of the 80's, simply because the quality is so high, but the bass you can get for less than $400 is a great value, a precision made instrument and better dollar for dollar than entry level priced basses have ever been. What a great time to be a player, even a beginner, in.
 
When you add that on top of the fact that vibration from a bass is the cause of a large percentage, and perhaps all human reproduction, then you will see how important Thunderbird players really are.
There are children by the thousands out there who never met their fathers but only know that he played a Thunderbird.....as far as their mothers can recall.
 
So speaking of She Sells Sanctuary, this is a cool article.

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Ah Drummers, they're all the same! :laugh:

I never knew Mark (from Big Country) sat in with them for the video shoot, yet there his is! I love Big Country too, those guys were brilliant players, esp Tony Butler.
 
I actually bought this bird. Brought it to a pre-production rehearsal tonight; the whole band and producer commented on how great it sounded. A very happy camper here.

No need to convince me, Lulls are awesome Thunderbirds.

Congratulations on your new bass!
Share a pic with us and I'll add you to the list if you like.
 
I don't recall what particular issue you're having with the three point bridge but just about any problem with it can be fixed cheaper than buying a new bridge. About the biggest problem with the 3 point is loose inserts pulling out. If that's the problem there's a dead easy dirt cheap 100% effective DIY solution.

If you really want to go with after market solutions there are two bridges that are specifically made for TBird replacements - Hipshot and Babicz. Neither are cheap but I think the Hipshot is a bit cheaper and it does have routing on the bottom side to allow space for raised face body inserts. Anything else you buy will require the removal of the inserts so the bridge can sit flush on the body. There might be a two piece (saddle bar that screws into existing inserts) and hard tail (to hold the ball ends) that would give the Bird a more vintage look, but I suspect it doesn't cover the single front bridge mount hole of the newer birds.

Again there is a fix for the original bridge, using it would be my advice.

- I don't like the look of the hipshot
- I have a babicz on my Gibson which is great but it's more than half the Price I paid for the classic pro, so lookin for a cheaper alternative
- inserts pull out, even though I glued em in. I am pissed off by those Little ********, thus the idea of going the "Thunderbird pro" Bridge concept

Why not remove the inserts and grind the "lip" down on a belt sander and put them back in, like someone else here did - That way you could use the Babicz...
cheers, that could be a solution IF I Keep it 3 point
 
Went to see Conan, North, Badr Vogu, and Body Void tonight. Heavy as hell. Bassist of Body Void had just gotten a T-bird that he used for his whole set. North's bassist was using one of those special edition gold finish T-birds.

After that pummeling of low end, I feel like a wet noodle.

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Always thought that Ric's were at the same level looks wise, sound wise, cool wise etc. Ric's and T-birds together interchangeably is a pretty bad ass combo IMO.
Yep. Gigged both the T-bird and the 4003S this week.

Conan, the one band that made me leave a concert for pure volume. I nearly had to throw up every time the Bassist hit a note. half the People left the venue, it was unbearable! Damn! Motörhead were a Piece of cake against that! Those guys are effing looneys
They're tuned to low F!

I was right in front of the bass rig. It was awesome.

They definitely have stage presence going for them, too.
 
- I don't like the look of the hipshot
- I have a babicz on my Gibson which is great but it's more than half the Price I paid for the classic pro, so lookin for a cheaper alternative
- inserts pull out, even though I glued em in. I am pissed off by those Little ********, thus the idea of going the "Thunderbird pro" Bridge concept


cheers, that could be a solution IF I Keep it 3 point

If you decide to keep the 3-point, maybe you'll need some stronger glue like epoxy to keep the inserts in?
 
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The reason I went with a Babicz when chroming the '91 was because it doesn't hang over the centerblock like a Hipshot. I'm pretty shallow that way. Well, I also already have a couple bass guitars with Babicz bridges and like 'em, but shallowness is my story, and I'm sticking to it.
Hah, good that you can admit and deal with that. :) The fact that the Hipshot hangs very slightly over the center is a little annoying. I got it I think before the Babicz came out, but either way I find the Babicz ugly and it doesn't offer the side-to-side string spacing adjustment I like, as far as I know.
 
- I don't like the look of the hipshot
- I have a babicz on my Gibson which is great but it's more than half the Price I paid for the classic pro, so lookin for a cheaper alternative
- inserts pull out, even though I glued em in. I am pissed off by those Little ********, thus the idea of going the "Thunderbird pro" Bridge concept


cheers, that could be a solution IF I Keep it 3 point
Simply gluing in the inserts will frequently not solve the problem, if you used wood glue they sometimes will just pull right back out again. The inserts need to bite into solid wood to stay in place. Yours have pulled out and probably enlarged the hole beyond a simple glue solution, there's probably no solid wood for them to bite back into.

To correctly solve the problem you need to add fresh wood back into the hole and then press the inserts back into place. On a professional level that would typically be done by gluing a dowel rod into the hole and redrilling new correct size holes for the inserts. However, on a DIY level you can accomplish the same thing with nearly the same success rate by gluing a few toothpicks in each hole (wood glue works good, epoxy is permanent so I don't like it), then carefully pounding the inserts back in place, letting it dry overnight, replacing the bridge properly (see below), reinstalling your strings, and setting the action/intonation/tuning.

Note:
Proper bridge replacement means you do everything you can to avoid using the bridge as a lever to pull the inserts back out. That means that once you have the inserts in place and dried overnight you hand screw the bolts back into place and set the rear two screws to the lowest possible position (the rear of the bridge should be resting on the body or possibly the top of the inserts) while at the same time the single front screw is set about 1/4" to 3/8" of an inch higher. This sets the approximate correct relationship between the front and rear screws and if done properly will result in a bridge that is noticeably lower in the rear and raised in the front. You should do all this before putting strings on the bass.

Next you can restring your bass. Because you have set the rear screws on the lowest possible setting all further screw adjustments you will make will raise the bridge and put less stress on the inserts than starting high and tightening the screws would have done. Remember, if you raise the rear screws you should also raise the front screw by about the same amount to retain roughly the same relationship between the front and rear screws. As you're setting the action you may end up raising the bridge a bit too high and find that you need to back it down a bit - just remember, loosen the strings a few turns before lowering the bridge. Cranking those screws down while the strings are good and tight is the easiest way to pull the inserts back out of your bass.