Thanks for pointing out the Hipshot tuners on the Plus models and suggesting the archived Peavey manuals. However, they seem to only have archived manuals for the BXP models and the US Plus models. Oh well, researching this stuff gives me something to do instead of work. Don't give me all the clues!
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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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Thanks for pointing out the Hipshot tuners on the Plus models and suggesting the archived Peavey manuals. However, they seem to only have archived manuals for the BXP models and the US Plus models. Oh well, researching this stuff gives me something to do instead of work. Don't give me all the clues!
If anyone is interested on GREAT PRICE on a Bquad 4, check out the HOT DEALS Section.
Its NOT MINE, but just found a sweet looking trans blue/green in NY CL for $875.00.
Its NOT MINE, but just found a sweet looking trans blue/green in NY CL for $875.00.
mark beem
Wait, how does this song start again??
A quick Palaedium question for those in the know.. Did they come in any colors besides the clear and trans red?
I hope I'm not hijacking a thread here, but I need expert Peavey Cirrus advice. I just got a Cirrus4 fretless. Love it in every way except the output seems very low. Batteries are new, etc. I have a couple of other active basses that have much more low end. Should I expect low output on this bass?
Thanks
Thanks
Output on a Cirrus should definitely not resemble anything that could possibly be described as "low".
Please confirm we're discussing a USA Cirrus... if you don't know for sure we can tell from pix.
It's a USA Cirrus 4. I have a Sad NYC VTC 4 string and a Roscoe Century V 5 string with an Audere preamp. They both measure around 460mv at the output of the preamp. The Cirrus measures 67mv. This is measured with a Fluke 87V true RMS DMM. I'm fairly skilled in amp theory/repair. I just don't know how much output to expect from a Cirrus. Without any real troubleshooting so far, I'm wondering if the op amp is bad? I can really crank up the main amp (Eden Metro, 600W) and make it sound OK, but it just doesn't seem right.
Guess
Call meridian for a millenium preamp
Vfls periodically go bad - tough for them to both go bad at once
Saved This Pro 410 From GC Today, They said it had Blown Speakers, I was Going to rebuild it, But Not Needed, it is wired for a 2 Ohm Load, someone must have had a Pro 500 Like Me!! and wanted the full 500, They (GC) Over Loaded There head at 2 ohm, Distorted and made them Think the 10's Were Blown. It Sounds Great. Nice Mate to The Pro 500
Saved This Pro 410 From GC Today, They said it had Blown Speakers, I was Going to rebuild it, But Not Needed, it is wired for a 2 Ohm Load, someone must have had a Pro 500 Like Me!! and wanted the full 500, They (GC) Over Loaded There head at 2 ohm, Distorted and made them Think the 10's Were Blown. It Sounds Great. Nice Mate to The Pro 500
Nice score! I had a Pro 410 and it was a great cabinet! Not identically voiced to my Aguilar GS410, but totally comparable. In the end, I didn't need 2 410s and I decided to stick with my herd of Aguilar cabs, so the Peavey went along with my Peavey BAM210 to a new owner.
I did A/B the Pro 410 (which I got used) against a new Peavey Tour series 410 (TVX410? or something like that). I thought the Pro 410 sounded WAY better than that Tour series. Too bad Peavey quit making the Pro series.
Congrats!
Got it. The op amp is fried. The output at the jack was actually lower than at the pickups. This is a dual amp wired in series and one side was shorted and swamping the output. Thanks for the help.
A complete Millennium preamp was about $55, direct from Peavey, the last time I got one. If it doesn't already have a Mill pre, you'll also want to order a set of knobs, since you'll need a stacked knob for the Mid pot (and they don't sell just a stacker that matches the knobs that come on a non-Mill pre Cirrus). That'll add another $20 or so.
The Mill pre is a totally worthwhile upgrade (in my opinion), even on a Cirrus that has a working stock preamp. I would absolutely for sure put one in a Cirrus where the original preamp died.
Part #s, prices, contact info is all at the end of this thread:
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/peavey-millennium-preamp-upgrade-step-step-395853/
The Mill pre is a totally worthwhile upgrade (in my opinion), even on a Cirrus that has a working stock preamp. I would absolutely for sure put one in a Cirrus where the original preamp died.
Part #s, prices, contact info is all at the end of this thread:
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/peavey-millennium-preamp-upgrade-step-step-395853/
Jason Here is some more info ..
This is really helpful. Thanks.
So if I find a bass that matches these specs, I can be confident that it's a MIA Millennium... I hope. Are there exceptions?
For now, this looks like an excellent guide.
There was, I think, also a MIA P/J passive Millennium 4-string, which is not described by this brochure.
If it says BXP on it, it is definitely not MIA. If it doesn't say BXP or Export or anything like that, but it also doesn't say a country, and it matches these specs, then I'm not sure. I suppose it would be possible that it could still be a BXP, but with the BXP and country stickers removed.
Also, MIA Mills have, I think (at least, mine does), the serial number actually impressed into the wood on the back of the headstock. I don't think the BXP models have that.
And I think a major clue is that the MIA models have a stacked knob arrangement on the EQ's Mid pot. I don't think the BXP models have ever had that.
Also, the bridge on the MIA Mills is one solid unit. The BXP bridge is 4 (or 5) individual pieces.
There are lots of pretty detailed photos of mine here, Peavey Millennium 5 pictures by stuartv - Photobucket, if you ever want to use them as a reference.
You can easily find pictures of AC BXP models to compare against to see the differences. The non-AC BXP models have a totally different knob setup, since they are passive, and thus, very easy to weed out.
If it says BXP on it, it is definitely not MIA. If it doesn't say BXP or Export or anything like that, but it also doesn't say a country, and it matches these specs, then I'm not sure. I suppose it would be possible that it could still be a BXP, but with the BXP and country stickers removed.
Also, MIA Mills have, I think (at least, mine does), the serial number actually impressed into the wood on the back of the headstock. I don't think the BXP models have that.
And I think a major clue is that the MIA models have a stacked knob arrangement on the EQ's Mid pot. I don't think the BXP models have ever had that.
Also, the bridge on the MIA Mills is one solid unit. The BXP bridge is 4 (or 5) individual pieces.
There are lots of pretty detailed photos of mine here, Peavey Millennium 5 pictures by stuartv - Photobucket, if you ever want to use them as a reference.
You can easily find pictures of AC BXP models to compare against to see the differences. The non-AC BXP models have a totally different knob setup, since they are passive, and thus, very easy to weed out.
NicJimBass
Flossin'? I thought your name was Munson!
The things I zone in on to tell the difference between a US and import Millenniums are the bridge (always 2-tone on the US, so it's a bit easier to tell from a distance), the pickups (I don't see the J/MM config on the imports), and for the Plus models, the Hopshot tuners.
I picked up a Pro500 late last year and have it paired with TVX210 & BX115-BW (I wish I had a 410). It really is a nice amp.
