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U.S. Peavey Club

#4,341
I don't normally ask for advice on mods but I'm really undecided on this since it takes a very visible mod.

Should I put a J Bass PU on this? A buddy gave me a Seymour-Duncan Basslines SJB-3b bridge position. The body has been routed under the PG for different PUs (including a T-40 and a pair of series wired SFs) and several types of tuners and PUs have been on it over the years so it's not pristine. Haven't found much said about this particular PU. Does anyone have experience with the Basslines and think it would blend well with the stock Peavey? From the size of the slugs it looks like it would have plenty of output. I think I'd like to have some more of the right kind of flexibility but if the PU sucks I'd hate to put a big hole in it and have to go on the hunt for something that mixed well. $$ is tight. FWIW it's one of my favorite players, is BEAD and I have other PGs that will work for whatever I decide to do with the controls.

Furycrop.jpg


mech
 
#4,342
CrewsControl said:
On eBay right now, two unusual T-40 basses.

1981 Tobacco burst T-40

1982 Tobacco burst T-40
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. These auctions can be fun...

I'm probably in the minority wondering why the auction description has nothing about the condition of the frets. Are they original frets, replacements, and how much wear? Also, is this a one-owner?

These ads need more detail that doesn't beg for an email to the owner who's so 'silent' about the history of this nearly 30 year-old instrument. If he's owned it for a short time, it should be listed with that info.

You'll often find sunburst T-40's for sale, although the weight is rarely listed by the seller. These are (in most examples) heavy!
 
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#4,343
Staccato said:
Thanks for the link. These auctions can be fun...

I'm probably in the minority wondering why the auction description has nothing about the condition of the frets. Are they original frets, replacements, and how much wear? Also, is this a one-owner?

These ads need more detail that doesn't beg for an email to the owner who's so 'silent' about the history of this nearly 30 year-old instrument. If he's owned it for a short time, it should be listed with that info.

You'll often find sunburst T-40's for sale, although the weight is rarely listed by the seller. These are (in most examples) heavy!
Click to expand...

Unless the condition of the frets is listed in the description, it's safe to assume the frets are fine. Neither of these basses show heavy playing wear, and most of all - if the frets are worn, the buyer has to accept a return. Meaning he's out $50 shipping on a $300 bass.
 
#4,344
mech said:
I don't normally ask for advice on mods but I'm really undecided on this since it takes a very visible mod.

Should I put a J Bass PU on this? A buddy gave me a Seymour-Duncan Basslines SJB-3b bridge position. The body has been routed under the PG for different PUs (including a T-40 and a pair of series wired SFs) and several types of tuners and PUs have been on it over the years so it's not pristine. Haven't found much said about this particular PU. Does anyone have experience with the Basslines and think it would blend well with the stock Peavey? From the size of the slugs it looks like it would have plenty of output. I think I'd like to have some more of the right kind of flexibility but if the PU sucks I'd hate to put a big hole in it and have to go on the hunt for something that mixed well. $$ is tight. FWIW it's one of my favorite players, is BEAD and I have other PGs that will work for whatever I decide to do with the controls.
Click to expand...

If it's already been routed under the p/guard, then go ahead and add that jazz pickup. Basslines pickups, IME, are excellent.
 
#4,345
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#4,346
mark beem said:
I recently acquired a second, trans-black TL-6 and am entertaining the idea of turning it into an "stealth" bass. Im wondering if this bridge would be a direct replacement for the stock gold Kahler bridge that originally came on the bass.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190688132582?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

You mean like a big brother to this? On a dark stage it looks like a set of strings floating in the air

StealthTL5Panorama.jpg


I personally don't like that bridge. I don't own one but do occasional setups for a friend with a bass that has one and all the adjustments are cumbersome. The saddles are screws and the strings just about have to be removed to screw them in or out to make height adjustments. There is no setting between half turns but they are a very fine thread pitch. The strings have to be slacked off for the saddle plate to be moved to set intonation and it's not easy to make precise adjustments for intonation. The plate will also want to skew sideways. It takes about four hands. Don't know about the mounting screw pattern. I do like the industrial look and it's extremely stable when set up and everything locked down but I don't think it was designed by someone that has had to set it up. I'm not in love with the look of the stock Schaller roller bridge but really like the ease of adjustment and ability to set string spacing.

If you want to really stealth it and black out the frets, Birchwood-Casey makes a product called Brass Black. There's enough copper in the frets for it to work although it will take several applications and light hand buffing to look good. It's not a dark shiny black but more of a really dark semi-gloss grey. Follow the directions and be sure to remove all tarnish and de-grease the frets first. It's not permanent and will need to be touched up every now and then but it does hold up pretty well. Easily removable with steel wool. It didn't stain my ebony fretboard where it could be seen but did need some clean up. It's not affected by the mineral oil I use on the fretboard. Just as a FYI, I wouldn't use it on a light fretboard since the chemical reaction with the copper will stain it blue.

The fret markers were just covered with thin self adhesive plastic.

mech
 
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