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U.S. Peavey Club

#4,522
smcd said:
The color selections.
Click to expand...

that's awesome - that's also the only flaw i can detect on mine as well.

I am curious about something on the '94 Foundation - the headstock label has "Foundation" on it in big letters and the "Peavey" logo is smaller and towards the end of the headstock.

Is this something that was common? All of my other US Peavey's have the logo prominent.
 
#4,523
It was a short-lived 80's thing.

My '86 Foundation has this kind of headstock -

Link Removed





And then there's these -


94.fury.head.jpg


Patriot2.jpg
 
#4,524
Yeah, I'm an idiot - most of my other Peavey's have the model name more prominent...The difference is that the Foundation name on the '85 is printed (exactly like SMCD's above) and scripted on the '94 (without a border around the perimeter of the headstock...just looks a bit weird to me.

I was in a music shop before and saw a used Axcelerator (black) listed for $900. Is it me, or do they usually go for about half of that?
 
#4,526
heads.jpg


yeah, the earlier foundations (and derivatives) say "peavey foundation" and the later ones say "foundation peavey", and then those funky script ones....other differences too, tuners, headstock and bodyshapes, control plates, bridges and knobs etc etc, as peavey had to cheap out more and more...discussed pretty well back in the TB "peavey foundation database" thread

that ebay t-40 went for over $900 to a legit buyer, i do believe thats a record
 
#4,527
ack said:
that's awesome - that's also the only flaw i can detect on mine as well.

I am curious about something on the '94 Foundation - the headstock label has "Foundation" on it in big letters and the "Peavey" logo is smaller and towards the end of the headstock.

Is this something that was common? All of my other US Peavey's have the logo prominent.
Click to expand...

I would think it more likely your bass is a 91-92 foundation. It probably has the smaller more rounded headstock. This followed the large angular headstock of the late eighties peaveys. The script foundation is prominant with the lightning peavey logo near the end of the headstock. Mid 92 the headstock shape remained the same, but the printed Peavey logo with foundation printed below replaced the script.(all of these variations used the superferrite pickups)

By late 93 the headstock got a larger bulbous end, but maintained the printed logo(this version used the "transition pickups" which have the same shape as superferrites but just peavey stamped on the covers, disputed, but likely the same pickup inside).

By mid 94 the logo remained the same but the headstock took a slightly more angular shape(kind of like an inverted nike swoosh;these foundations use vfl shaped single coil pickups).
 
#4,532
ack said:
tick, tick, tick...I thought so.
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly, some of the RJ's and Unities with neck through design have a neck angle that makes it difficult to lower the bridge saddles enough for low action. I think one solution was to file some metal off of the bottoms of the saddles, though I would wait for someone else to verify this as my Unity has rediculously low action without any modifications so I have never done this.
 
#4,534
bassmanrocke said:
If I remember correctly, some of the RJ's and Unities with neck through design have a neck angle that makes it difficult to lower the bridge saddles enough for low action. I think one solution was to file some metal off of the bottoms of the saddles, though I would wait for someone else to verify this as my Unity has rediculously low action without any modifications so I have never done this.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that - I had heard it was some sort of bridge issue on the RJ-IV, but your post was the first I've seen that provided any details at all - I'll hold off on doing anything - I really like the bass the way it is.
 
#4,538
mech said:
You are correct, the pot nuts hold the pcb in, but it won't need to be removed unless you need to clean the pots. The switch would also have to be taken out.

There's also a screwdriver adjustable pot on the pcb that sets the balance between the active and passive settings. There's an access hole in the control pocket cover.

mech
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comeback.
I just picked up two new boards with pots from a fellow TBer. I’m also looking at swapping out the P/Us with Bartolini (S8 + J-L1).
 
#4,539
Ken J said:
Thanks for the comeback.
I just picked up two new boards with pots from a fellow TBer. I’m also looking at swapping out the P/Us with Bartolini (S8 + J-L1).
Click to expand...

I still think the prob you have is with the PU wiring/solder joints unless the Balance control is physically broken or has a failed solder joint on the pcb but it's good to have spares. The Barts should sound really nice for fretless.

The inductor coil that is used for the midrange circuit and the stacked High/Treble pot are the most valuable parts on those pcbs since the are rare and hard to find. All other parts are common values and can be easily found and replaced although the other pots would take some jury rigging. Fortunately the inductor is not a failure prone part unless it is physically damaged.

If you take a good look at the pcb, the solder pads where the wires attach are labeled...
+ = battery positive
- = battery negative
G = ground. Ground wires can be attached anywhere on this trace.
R = ring contact on output jack. Used for turning power on and off with a mono cable plug when the sleeve of the plug shorts the ring contact to ground in the female jack.
N = neck PU hot
B = bridge PU hot
O = Output to jack

As a future reference for anyone with this preamp and Super Ferrite PUs...the PUs are wired out of phase to the pcb. On one PU the red wire will be hot and on the other PU the black wire will be hot. The shield and other wire will be hooked together. The coils are wired the same internally but are magnetically out of phase. With the coils being wired to the pcb out of phase they form a humbucking pair when the balance control is in the middle and are still humbucking to a lesser degree when the PU levels are not balanced.

I'm not sure about the P and J style PU wiring since I've not dealt with that version for a while.

mech
 
#4,540
Just received this yesterday. Peavey tells me the it was manufactured in late 1998 or 1999, but they don't have a ship date. It's been in the dealer's showroom since then and I am the first owner. Plays like a dream, though it will take some getting used to. The action is lower and not as stiff as my Grind 5 with DR Hi Beams. The flame figure is very subdued, which I like a lot.

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