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Winter Build Off 2022 - Get Ready

I don't know that I'll use an insert on mine (I'm planning to do some for my build), but it won't ever see gig type use, so they probably won't get handled much. And yeah, wenge is pretty dang hard. I'm probably just gonna press them on and call it good.
Realistically, I'll be sitting in a chair, playing gently with the volume low. I probably don't need inserts.
But on the inside, I'll be all like
07 Ted Nugent, 1977.jpg
 
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I've made my own knobs in a couple of ways without inserts.

I made press-on knobs by drilling slightly oversized holes and putting epoxy into the hole. I used an old wrecked pot with a little sliver of brass in the slot on the end. Some paste wax and I put them into the epoxy. When they came out I had a perfect fit press-on knob made of wood. :thumbsup:

The other method was just drilling a straight hole into the knob with a side hole tapped for the set screw. I put a little CA glue on the threads and tapped them again, plus one more time for good measure. :D
 
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how much it that in metric?

About 547,000 seconds

Actually it's 9 kilominutes.

Really if you think about it, an hour or two each day gives you at least 90 hours to finish. Some days off from work may see more time, some days may get skipped all together, but it's achievable in three months.

An hour or two of free time every day? You clearly don't have 2 year old twins my friend! :D :crying:
 
Can I suggest Starbond instead? It'll set without activator, and you can also hit it with the activator to set it immediately.
I was actually hoping the 2P-10 took a long time to tack up and required the activator. Something like that would be good for coating boards or for things that you need a little time to play with and wiggle into place before the glue sets. I thought that was how the 2P-10 operated, but I'm not sure.
 
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Yes, but there are a couple things I like about it. It's very consistent, bottle to bottle and the activator and deactivator work better than other products I've tried. I also find less white crap floating in it after being activated than some glues. To be fair, I've also found Gorilla glue brand medium CA to be of similar quality, though it's more expensive overall.
 
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Well, I only need it for small repairs and possibly hardening threads in wood- type stuff. No coating fretless boards or anything.
I'll grab a 2oz bottle each of the thin and thick stuff and try it out. I won't bother with the activator since it dries like typical CA.
Plus, the big box store stuff is $6 for a tiny bottle and the tips are always destroyed before it's half gone.
 
I'm thinking I'll attempt to make at least a half dozen knobs, ruin all of them and just end up ordering some.
So, I really don't want to waste more than $10-20 and 3-4 days ruining knobs.
I found the knobs for my bass were pretty easy to make. And I've never done it before. As long as you have a drill press and/or a lathe to turn them on.
 
I've tapped threads in maple and African Blackwood knobs. Works fine. If you're unsure just tap the wood and then run some CA glue down the threads. If you look in the wooden knobs thread Tim started I've used a Heli-Coil type insert in knobs and that works pretty well also. If you tap the threads directly in the wood just don't crank down on the set screw. Also, the Bitterroot inserts are good and I've used them a number of times but they are for 6mm splined shaft pots, there's not set screw.
 
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