Acme Users Unite!!!

[greenboy]

Keep it simple. See/hear if the amp you currently have will make the cab you have do the SPL you require. If they don't then start looking at alternatives.

There is no certain amount of wattage you need just to "match" a cab or cabs.

 

[JoshuaTSP]

You don't need 1000W-2400W - most likely what you have will work, so wait till you try it before buying anything. Also, you are on the right track with the 8ohm B4's - they work well as a 4 ohm load to the amp when paralleled. The full 8x10 stack sounds nothing short of amazing.

Tracking # coming today btw.

To be honest, that was the route I was planning on going.

Both cabs stacked at 4 ohms, with a higher powered head driving both of them. simple.

Where are you located? FWIW, the Mackie would be fine for a single 8 ohm B-4. The price is a little high; should be more like $175-200 but, hey, its a retail business.

Edit: BTW, if you're having to contend with an improperly EQ'd Marshall guitar stack, you're pretty much hosed from the git-go.

Riis

I'm in WI.

The Mackie is nice because it has all of the filters and whatnot.
The guy told me the amp was perfect, except the main switch had been replaced. Said the switches are rare and it cost him $80. :freak:

I'm contending with a 50w SUNN 200S into 2 - 4x12s.

 

[JoshuaTSP]

How are the Stewart World 2.1 amps?

 

[Zooberwerx]

To be honest, that was the route I was planning on going.

Both cabs stacked at 4 ohms, with a higher powered head driving both of them. simple.



I'm in WI.

The Mackie is nice because it has all of the filters and whatnot.
The guy told me the amp was perfect, except the main switch had been replaced. Said the switches are rare and it cost him $80. :freak:

I'm contending with a 50w SUNN 200S into 2 - 4x12s.

The Mackie will do 850 watts bridged mono / 8 ohm which is adequate for the single cab. It'll do 1260 watts @ 4 ohm or ~600 watts per cab when using two...a little shy IMO but as others have suggested, use your existing gear to determine what your true needs are.

If truly interested, do a little research on reasonable and customary prices for secondhand components. Show it to the retailer. I'll be ****** if I'll ever pay inflated prices just because a device has been repaired.

Riis

 

[msquared]

Keep it simple. See/hear if the amp you currently have will make the cab you have do the SPL you require. If they don't then start looking at alternatives.

There is no certain amount of wattage you need just to "match" a cab or cabs.

This. Times a million.

 

[JoshuaTSP]

The B4 twins shall be here today!
I'm very excited!

 

[Zooberwerx]

The B4 twins shall be here today!
I'm very excited!

Obviously.

Just stack 'em with the HF and MF drivers aligned on the left. It makes for a neat looking 8 X 10.

Own a handtruck?

Riis

 

[JoshuaTSP]

Obviously.

Just stack 'em with the HF and MF drivers aligned on the left. It makes for a neat looking 8 X 10.

Own a handtruck?

Riis

Tip them on their sides?

No hand truck, but I'm a big boy......
The band guys help too....since I help schelp the guitar player's 4x12.

I'm dumb and forgot to get a 1/4" to speakon connector....or a 1/4 to speakon adapter.

 

[bassbrock]

Tip them on their sides?

No hand truck, but I'm a big boy......
The band guys help too....since I help schelp the guitar player's 4x12.

I'm dumb and forgot to get a 1/4" to speakon connector....or a 1/4 to speakon adapter.

You want the high frequency and mid range drivers as close together as possible in the two cabs, so stack one upside down on top of the other. This helps reduce combing and helps the two cabs integrate better.

I would stack the one with the wheels on the bottom and then the one without wheels upside down on top. Makes it easy to roll around the 8x10 stack that way. I found that the wheels worked best when mounted closer to the outside edge (thats why you'll see two sets of holes on the bottom; the other set of holes that was closer in is filled in with silicone to keep the cab sealed).

By the way, meant to mention in a PM, the wheels are in the packing material on the sides and the screws are in a little bag in the packing material. Let me know if you have any trouble or any questions!

 

[JoshuaTSP]

You want the high frequency and mid range drivers as close together as possible in the two cabs, so stack one upside down on top of the other. This helps reduce combing and helps the two cabs integrate better.

I would stack the one with the wheels on the bottom and then the one without wheels upside down on top. Makes it easy to roll around the 8x10 stack that way. I found that the wheels worked best when mounted closer to the outside edge (thats why you'll see two sets of holes on the bottom; the other set of holes that was closer in is filled in with silicone to keep the cab sealed).

By the way, meant to mention in a PM, the wheels are in the packing material on the sides and the screws are in a little bag in the packing material. Let me know if you have any trouble or any questions!

I'm not sure I know what you mean by "combing"?
Is that like a phase cancellation of certain frequencies?

Also, do I want to decouple the cab from the floor with the casters?

 

[bassbrock]

I'm not sure I know what you mean by "combing"?
Is that like a phase cancellation of certain frequencies?

Also, do I want to decouple the cab from the floor with the casters?

Combing is constructive and destructive interference that results from multiple drivers in different physical locations in a non line-array cabinet. If visualized, it would literally look like a comb, with a spike protruding from each speaker in the whole stack and a gap in between, like a hair comb viewed from the side. It is audible when you move around your cabs while playing various tones or pink noise - you'll hear a spike in some frequencies and a null (drop) in others as you move around to different listening positions.

And I noticed no difference with or without castors. Raising the cabinet off the floor a few inches won't cause any low frequency loss. Boundary loading (free dB) occurs in the bass frequencies as long as the cab stays within ~2.5ft or so of the boundary (the floor in this case, or a wall or corner).

Hope this helps!

 

[JoshuaTSP]

Combing is constructive and destructive interference that results from multiple drivers in different physical locations in a non line-array cabinet. If visualized, it would literally look like a comb, with a spike protruding from each speaker in the whole stack and a gap in between, like a hair comb viewed from the side. It is audible when you move around your cabs while playing various tones or pink noise - you'll hear a spike in some frequencies and a null (drop) in others as you move around to different listening positions.

And I noticed no difference with or without castors. Raising the cabinet off the floor a few inches won't cause any low frequency loss. Boundary loading (free dB) occurs in the bass frequencies as long as the cab stays within ~2.5ft or so of the boundary (the floor in this case, or a wall or corner).

Hope this helps!

That does make sense. stacking them top to top.
Because the combing happens on two axes right?
both the side view of the cab, and the top view?
top to top would line up the mid drivers on both axes......yet wouldn't the tweeters be offset?
Does that matter?

It's never crossed my mind to even think about any of that.

Thanks for the info! Good to learn.

 

[JoshuaTSP]

They're here!

Now the long 2.5 hour wait, until I can try them out.



They're a lot smaller than I had expected.
WAY WAY smaller than the Yorkville 4x10 I had.

They don't feel all that heavy either. No more than my SWR 2x15 with neos.

 

[Zooberwerx]

They're here!

Now the long 2.5 hour wait, until I can try them out.



They're a lot smaller than I had expected.
WAY WAY smaller than the Yorkville 4x10 I had.

They don't feel all that heavy either. No more than my SWR 2x15 with neos.

Take a look at the back. There's a couple cubby's to stash your beer while onstage.

Enjoy the boxes!

Riis

 

[jonesn4bass]

Anybody here using a B4 (series 2) with a LOUD metal band? I have a chance to pick one up in a trade and have read very positive reviews on the sound, but some concerns on volume output. If I bought it I'd be pushing it with a Carvin B1500 and using a Stingray 5.

The band consists if two guitars using Mesa "dual rectifiers" through half stacks and a drummer that hits so hard that I've been pelted with flying cymbal brass on more than one occasion. Ideally, they would turn down just a bit and we'd all win, but I've been losing that battle for a long time now. I just want to be heard as well.

Any feedback from someone in my position would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

 

[JoshuaTSP]

I just used a pair of B4 cabs powered by a Mesa M2000 amplifer....and had zero problems being heard in a loud stoner rock band.
For me.....the same amp into my old 2x15 cab....was "one notch" lower on the volume.
So it's slightly quieter, but not really that much.

The cabs do seems a little scooped though.

Take all of this with a grain of salt....since I am a 1 day acme owner.

 

[Zooberwerx]

I just used a pair of B4 cabs powered by a Mesa M2000 amplifer....and had zero problems being heard in a loud stoner rock band.
For me.....the same amp into my old 2x15 cab....was "one notch" lower on the volume.
So it's slightly quieter, but not really that much.

The cabs do seems a little scooped though. Take all of this with a grain of salt....since I am a 1 day acme owner.

Compared to what? Where do you have your attenuators and Mesa EQ set? My Acmes take on the character of the bass and rackmount preamp with little colorization. You may have to re-think your set-up.

Riis

 

[JoshuaTSP]

Compared to what? Where do you have your attenuators and Mesa EQ set? My Acmes take on the character of the bass and rackmount preamp with little colorization. You may have to re-think your set-up.

Riis

Compared to my old rig......800RB and 2x15 with kappalites.
which is inherently tighter, brighter, louder and more focused.

I have the Mesa EQ setup slightly un

I ended up turning the tweeters down and nearly off.
-10db+.

The mid drivers were at 50%.

I only had 30 mins to tweak it before the band showed up.

So I will have to return to this thread once I have a chance to really evaluate.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Compared to my old rig......800RB and 2x15 with kappalites.
which is inherently tighter, brighter, louder and more focused.

I have the Mesa EQ setup slightly un

I ended up turning the tweeters down and nearly off.
-10db+.

The mid drivers were at 50%.

I only had 30 mins to tweak it before the band showed up.

So I will have to return to this thread once I have a chance to really evaluate.

Fair enough. With your attenuators set as described, you're halfway to "subwoofer". An early manual suggests setting the mids @ 5 and HF @ 2 for the flattest response possible. I go 4 and 1 and tweak the preamp (PEQ) to bring out the low end articulation and finger tone in the high mids. The cab responds tremendously with no more than 1-2 dB in either direction.

Riis

 

[jonesn4bass]

Thanks GasKing!

so, a PAIR of B4's was almost as loud as a solitary 2x15. hmmmm. That may not do the trick. I'm looking to trade 2 Carvin BRX10.2 cabs rated 600W each at 4ohm, for single B4 at 4ohm. Odds are that combined Carvin rig is gonna pump some jams a bit louder, huh?