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Bugera Bass Amps???

#102
Just vice versa for me.
I kinda like the amps, but the fridge has never been my pair of shoes. Not a big fan of closed cabs at all.
That's why I usually have my BVV3000 drive the vented custom made 2x18 that goes way lower than the Ampeg fridge and use the Veyron with my TecAmp L810.
The 810 is a more "modern" sounding cab, going lower and higher than the fridge and weighs just half of it.

Anyway I have to admit that a P-bass through a full tube Ampeg rig is something that just fits together and works very well in most live situations and for many styles of music.
Bring this and most FoHs will be happy as they exactly know how to deal with that stuff.

But then again I love my setup - bass in gig bag on the back, Veyron with its handle in one hand and dragging the 810 behind me with the other hand with ease.
Ok, stairs or narrow hallways sometimes let me think about a 112...but only until I play the first notes that is...
 
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#104
Justice said:
Never been a fan of Ampeg amps, just not the sound for me. If I had of been in Brads shoes, I would have probably just hooked my Veyron up to the 8x10 so I would not have to carry my speaker cab. lol
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That was an option I hadn't considered because I had already walked in with everything in one trip and it was an easy schlep. Plus I really like what my rig gives me. The same has been true for all of my rigs over the past 15 or so years. I had a full Eden rig provided years ago, a WT1000 on a D410XLT and 118 stack. I asked the same question and brought in my Markbass LMII on my coax 1-15/coax 1-10 Bag End stack. Same reaction from the sound crew. It killed... And didn't sound like a Eden rig which no doubt someone else might've loved. Then again they might've loved playing through my rig too. Experience is not necessarily a bad thing.

The logic that my ideal should be using what someone else prefers escapes me. And now the SVT guy is harassing me through private messaging. It takes all kinds.
 
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#105
DWBass said:
Yeah, the Ampeg rig is the be all end all of all bass rigs...............NOT! The one I used could not give me MY sound nor was it as loud as I THOUGHT it would be. Nor did it have enough LOW end for my taste. I truly felt duped!

But I digress. This is supposed to be a Bugera bass amp thread.
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I had a svt and 8x10 supplied as a backline on a gig recently, I'd much rather have used my GK 800RB and fEARful(if it was the svt2 non-pro it'd be a different story) but due to time constraints that wasn't an option...

Different strokes and all that, but Ampeg's aren't the be all/end all for amplification and aren't right for everyone
 
#106
bordinco90 said:
I was looking at one of the ads here on TB and saw that it was for a Bugera Veyron Tube Bass Head. It looks amazing!
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
BN410TS-large.jpg

Has anyone ever played/owned/tried one of these? It looks almost too good to be true (2000 watts for only $500) Also has anyone ever tried the Bugera BN410TS cab? I was thinking about getting these two and playing with them. Is the power handling on both exaggerated? The cab is listed at 2800 watts, yet it only cost $550. Need some input on this... Thanks!!
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Could it be that that the wattage is a 'different' kind of wattage? For example, I used to have a 100 watt home stereo. Somewhere on the amp or in the owner's manual, however, it said something about 800 watts. I wouldn't be surprised if with all the deregulation since the 1980s, manufacturers might no longer be required to list RMS (continuous) power, and can just list peak power. I could be totally wrong though.
 
#107
Brad Johnson said:
That was an option I hadn't considered because I had already walked in with everything in one trip and it was an easy schlep. Plus I really like what my rig gives me. The same has been true for all of my rigs over the past 15 or so years. I had a full Eden rig provided years ago, a WT1000 on a D410XLT and 118 stack. I asked the same question and brought in my Markbass LMII on my coax 1-15/coax 1-10 Bag End stack. Same reaction from the sound crew. It killed... And didn't sound like a Eden rig which no doubt someone else might've loved. Then again they might've loved playing through my rig too. Experience is not necessarily a bad thing.

The logic that my ideal should be using what someone else prefers escapes me. And now the SVT guy is harassing me through private messaging. It takes all kinds.
Click to expand...

I had a similar situation a few months back with my side gig, I show up to this tiny venue where I wasn't informed that they have a backline, being in the city I had to park 4 blocks away and I carted my whole rig to this place...the soundguy refused to even let me use my GK but instead his SWR, so the whole 45 minute set my rig sat in the corner of this tiny little bar(no back stage or stage), good times for me;) your gig seems to have gone better(probably with a better soundtech)...

In short, I would've done the same thing if I had the option
 
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#108
fretter said:
Could it be that that the wattage is a 'different' kind of wattage? For example, I used to have a 100 watt home stereo. Somewhere on the amp or in the owner's manual, however, it said something about 800 watts. I wouldn't be surprised if with all the deregulation since the 1980s, manufacturers might no longer be required to list RMS (continuous) power, and can just list peak power. I could be totally wrong though.
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Weird how they post a 'PEAK' power rating instead of a continuous power rating. If you want to get the respect from your peers, why not post actual power ratings on a seemingly well made and sounding amp.
 
#109
DWBass said:
Weird how they post a 'PEAK' power rating instead of a continuous power rating. If you want to get the respect from your peers, why not post actual power ratings on a seemingly well made and sounding amp.
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I think part of their point is, "What are actual power ratings for a bass amp?" In other words, I don't think they feel that there are any current standards that truly explain bass amp performance. Not my words now, just my interpretation of what I have gathered....
 
#110
fretter said:
Could it be that that the wattage is a 'different' kind of wattage? For example, I used to have a 100 watt home stereo. Somewhere on the amp or in the owner's manual, however, it said something about 800 watts. I wouldn't be surprised if with all the deregulation since the 1980s, manufacturers might no longer be required to list RMS (continuous) power, and can just list peak power. I could be totally wrong though.
Click to expand...

FTC has regulations on Home stereos, but not on MI amps

This Bugera is "2000 Watts". Not FTC, not anything. RMS is not standard rating.
Someone contacted Bugera support and they said "peak", but if they're not willing to put that in writing, its just "2000 Watts"
Bugera makes other amps and advertises their "Watts". The best you can do is compare another Bugera amp with this one.

It's not just Bugera that is doing these shenanigans. It may be they are most visible because people constantly point out that it can't be real that it's 2000w. And these things are very popular now. There are plenty of pro power amps easily reaching 2000 in small light packages that fall into this price range. It is totally possible.

Ask Bugera for FTC ratings. I'd be more likely to by one if its FTC rated. People would generally calm down if it were FTC rated. It will never happen.
 
#111
Behringer's power amp "peak" power seems to be what others call "burst" power but is somewhat meaningless when it comes to bass without more information as to how it is measured AKA duration and duty cycle of burst. Mostly it look like they take the RMS rating and add 2 dB which is a pretty normal "headroom" spec for a power amp. OTOH what they are doing with the power specs for their bass amps and cabs is a mystery to me - I'd have to guess it's the peak voltage squared over the load resistance, not terribly informative or useful. A little math would get yah:
2000W peak = 1000W rms, minus 2 dB = 631W . So that would be my best guesstimate. Seem reasonable to anyone that owns one?
I also guess that the cab ratings are just massaged to match up with their amp ratings and are thermal not excursion based - as usual one should probably limit amp power to 1/2 the cab's ratings if you want to avoid mechanical damage (unless you have further info such as the drivers having exceptional xmax/xmech for their thermal ratings).
 

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