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I know this comment was in response to a post about an LM, so I wonder if you'd feel the same about an LG. I have a feeling the LoRiders might fare better there, as opposed to maybe being "a little too much of a good thing" on an LM. At least I'm going to try a set of LR's at some point on my LG.the lower voiced treble grind of jimmys guts lends itself better to hibeams than lowriders imo. for a wider voiced bass, i go loriders.
I know this comment was in response to a post about an LM, so I wonder if you'd feel the same about an LG. I have a feeling the LoRiders might fare better there, as opposed to maybe being "a little too much of a good thing" on an LM. At least I'm going to try a set of LR's at some point on my LG.![]()
I generally agree, tho I think I might put more weight in the wood's affect on tone. However, it's also the pickup spacing diff as well between the LM and LG, and I think that matters too. Anyway, fwiw.electronics have their same sonic range regardless of wood choice. the different woods add nuance ime, but the overall tone profile or voice is primarily determined on the guts, imo. the woods will add attack/air/bloom etc, but wont provide the frequency response between x and y hz like a set of pickups will.
FWIW, I've got Nickel LoRiders on my RA and its working out quite nice so far... I will have them on my LM as well when it gets here.
And +1 to Vic's response to Narud's post... I agree also but would give a little more credit to woods as well. Hence the difference between an LM and RA with the same electronics, 1-piece maple neck and strings - talking about comparing NAMM basses.
On the LM, the Hi Beams rule!
that's not what that spec is about!

FWIW, I've got Nickel LoRiders on my RA and its working out quite nice so far... I will have them on my LM as well when it gets here.
And +1 to Vic's response to Narud's post... I agree also but would give a little more credit to woods as well. Hence the difference between an LM and RA with the same electronics, 1-piece maple neck and strings - talking about comparing NAMM basses.
how does one determine what a spec is about?when pre cbs jazzes were new, you had flats and raw ass sounding roto steels. nickel shmickel.
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I actually kinda liked the stock A-C SS strings so there.
how does one determine what a spec is about?when pre cbs jazzes were new, you had flats and raw ass sounding roto steels. nickel shmickel.
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"caribbean Pbass adventure"
50 cents says you come back all Larry Graham'd up, and order an Alleva P5.
And many of the guys who used those roto steels on their old 60's alder/RW Fender's switched as fast as they could to the ash/maple 70's versions when they became available
IMO, most who buy a more 'early vintage' 60's spec'd alder/RW bass aren't really looking for maximum grind and sizzle, but rather warmth, punch and lower mid growl. That is exactly what many nickel roundwounds deliver, and is literally the tone and application they seemed designed for.
Obviously, this gets into personal taste, and there are no 'wrongs or rights'.
Edit:... and... one day until my 'PBass Caribbean adventure' starts!

Unfortunately I have become somewhat of a packrat / bass collector over the past few years, I am going to try to pair it down a bit but man I love all these basses.
AC LG5 (honduran board)
AC KBP5 (dalbergia board)
AC LM5 (on order with all the options)
Sadowsky Metro UV70 (black blocks and binding)
Lakland USA JO4 (#229)
That is among other gear as well, 2 full amp set ups, my upright (which is all I practice at home and still stink at) and studio gear. V drums, acoustic drums, protools rig and various preamps.
I know many of you guys are in a similar boat any words of wisdom?
Sent a pm.