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Club Sadowsky!!!

This is the view from the driver's seat. The treble and bass knobs are flat and I use the side screws on both for reference. I can't remember how they were originally but this is the way I like them: the screws are in my visual range from flat to 50-60% boost which is the range that I really use.
 

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This is the view from the driver's seat. The treble and bass knobs are flat and I use the side screws on both for reference. I can't remember how they were originally but this is the way I like them: the screws are in my visual range from flat to 50-60% boost which is the range that I really use.

I ordered my 2019 NYC custom build with the pan knob wired in 'reverse' My thought was this would operate similar to my vintage Jazz ('63) in that decreasing volume on the front pickup brings on the mid-squonk ala Jaco.

Funny thing is, I haven't really touched the J-bass since adopting the Sadowsky as my number 1.
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After trying lots of strings on my Satin 5-21, I finally got around to putting on a set of Dunlop Super Bright Nickels. They work really, really well on this bass! They also feel nicely balanced in tension, even though they’re not technically “balanced tension.” They’re my favorite strings I’ve tried on my Sadowsky so far. One caveat is that you can only get the .130 B string with the 6-string set. The 5-string Mediums come with a .125. So I ordered the 6-string set, and discarded the high C string. But I like the strings for this bass so much, I went ahead and ordered two more packs.
 
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After trying lots of strings on my Satin 5-21, I finally got around to putting on a set of Dunlop Super Bright Nickels. They work really, really well on this bass! They also feel nicely balanced in tension, even though they’re not technically “balanced tension.” They’re my favorite strings I’ve tried on my Sadowsky so far. One caveat is that you can only get the .130 B string with the 6-string set. The 5-string Mediums come with a .125. So I ordered the 6-string set, and discarded the high C string. But I like the strings for this bass so much, I went ahead and ordered two more packs.

I slapped an old set of Sadowsky Nickels on my ME V'er (after boiling them) and greatly prefer the smoother upper midrange compared to the bright edgy steels. Nickels have their own thing going on that I really like now.
 
FedEx delivered my Verdine White Vintage Satin Series and it ws everything I thought it would be and more. Roger did his usual magic on the setup using the notes that I included with the order , it plays great and sounds awesome. When the Covid restrictions allow I will take a short drive to the shop to have my RV Merto tweeked , it needs a fret dressing and overall going over , Roger also told me during our phone conversation to bring the VM in if it need anything else done to it ......it doesn't . I know on TB no pics no new bass , sorry I look a bit scruffy I was working in the yard when it got here. Like I said in an earlier post this was my wife's doing , she said order what ever you want , I kept it reasonable. View attachment 3871091 View attachment 3871093 View attachment 3871094

beautiful bass! I havent read all the posts, but what makes this bass a Verdine White and not a 5 string vintage Sadowsky PJ? I thought all VW had the typical standard model layout of knobs, and no control plates or pickguards.
 
To each his own.

Here's "my own":

I'm a traditional Fender guy, aesthetics-wise. I prefer blank knobs without indicator markings, but of course I understand the utility of markings. So, I've become accustomed to using the knobs' set screw as visual indicator -- yes, it usually means adjusting the knobs, but that's easy enough. I never look at the front (face? top?) of the knob, I look at the side -- naturally, the side that faces up toward me as I'm looking down.

That's preferable for another reason: I don't want to lean over to check position, I'd rather glance down. For that reason, I use the fretboard side dots when needed, and never the face dots.

Anyway: when using set screw, the traditional (non-Sadowsky) pan wiring is the logical choice. From the player's vantage point, the set screw moves left toward the neck pickup when the knob is turned clockwise, and right toward the bridge pickup when turned anticlockwise.


Of course it's just a matter of preference, but I believe (as stated by others) that Roger's wiring was chosen for sound and not visuals. Clockwise means "more" for volume, treble, and bass, and with the pan pot, it's "more mids"... or "more Jaco", as ElMon said. :)
 
Here's "my own":

I'm a traditional Fender guy, aesthetics-wise. I prefer blank knobs without indicator markings, but of course I understand the utility of markings. So, I've become accustomed to using the knobs' set screw as visual indicator -- yes, it usually means adjusting the knobs, but that's easy enough. I never look at the front (face? top?) of the knob, I look at the side -- naturally, the side that faces up toward me as I'm looking down.

That's preferable for another reason: I don't want to lean over to check position, I'd rather glance down. For that reason, I use the fretboard side dots when needed, and never the face dots.

Anyway: when using set screw, the traditional (non-Sadowsky) pan wiring is the logical choice. From the player's vantage point, the set screw moves left toward the neck pickup when the knob is turned clockwise, and right toward the bridge pickup when turned anticlockwise.


Of course it's just a matter of preference, but I believe (as stated by others) that Roger's wiring was chosen for sound and not visuals. Clockwise means "more" for volume, treble, and bass, and with the pan pot, it's "more mids"... or "more Jaco", as ElMon said. :)


I was surprised that you one-pickup, we-don't-need-no-stinkin-blend-knob P5 guys didn't throw down the gauntlet on this discussion.
 
Time to show some Sadowsky love.

For many years, my main bass was a Metro 5-24, ultimately shouldered aside by an NYC 5-24 that was a glorious axe...ebony board, koa top, mahogany body. But I started playing in a band where I wanted more of an old-school sound, and felt that the ebony board and pickup placement were not going to let me go there. In retrospect, I probably could have made other adjustments...but I also fell into the Lakland camp, via a fretless 34" 5-string that sounded great, and the ergonomics fit me like a glove. I ended up commissioning a fretted brother (rosewood/ash) from Carl Pedigo, with Duncan NYC soapbars and a John East preamp with variable mids and a master tone control - the VTC from Sadowsky being ever so addictive. I then fell further down the Lakland 35" rabbit hole - they are really good, practical basses, and that body shape works really well for me.

So, no Sadowsky in the house for several years. But on a business trip last fall, I had an unexpected opening in my schedule, and made the pilgrimage to Long Island City...I had eyes for a Will Lee with Soaps, in the '60's position. I played that axe, along with several others through the afternoon, thankful for the ability to take my time...and ended up with something unexpected - the single-cut in the center of my new (to me) trio of Sadowskys...

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This axe is phenomenal. Alder/Amazon Rosewood, and the "vintage" pickup arrangement, with the bridge pickup selectable for either coil (60's'/70's) or parallel operation, along with the Will Lee midrange boost. First off, the flamed, roasted maple neck is gorgeous.

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It also probably contributes greatly to the sound. The attack is not fast, but it's pretty well-defined. Each note starts with a tight, somewhat compressed presence. But then many notes - particularly in the upper register - blossom and bloom. It's a fabulous sound for soloing in a jazz context, kind of like blowing lines through the trombone - which was my first career! And as much of my "practice" is improvising over standards via iReal Pro, I'm happier than a pig in mud. I also have it set up a little lower than I usually favor, and am digging the growl that I can get when my left hand is working right. I am not sure this axe will satisfy with grunt or punch over the long haul, but the unique envelope and timbre is fascinating - I fell in love with it at the shop, and am thrilled to have such a great axe. And playing a bunch of Sadowskys over several hours, and not having my left hand feel challenged as it often did after long sessions with the 55-94, made me realize that a return to 34" would be a good move. I also came to realize how much I missed the Sadowsky preamp - it's just so darned musical and effective. The basses sound great by themselves, and they sound even better in the mix.

Now, even more Sadowsky love...Roger and crew are the best. The fingerboard had been treated with linseed oil, to which I seem to have developed an allergy (which sucks - I've used this stuff in refinishing furniture, as a po' boy, decades ago) and I'd asked if action could be taken to eliminate the odor. Roger said he's work on it, and 10-12 days later, the bass arrived at my home. Upon taking possession, it was clear that more work would have to be done to lose the unwanted funk. Roger gracefully took it back, including shipping, and took more time to scrape the board down, as well as playing with solvents. I was anxious to get it back, but was told that Roger was often "out of the shop," but would take care of it.

Well, he did - when the bass again arrived, it was completely odor-free. Success! And...several weeks later, as the Sadowsky/Warwick licensing deal was announced, I realized that Roger likely had been jetting back and forth to Germany, but still managing to squeeze my bass into his mix. Impressive!

Finally, I took more of a Sadowsky plunge. I'd sold my 34" 5-string Lakland fretless, retaining an early 55-94 fretless, but then the fretless on the left of my trio showed up - this is a mid-90's 5-24 (ash/morado) that's coursed through TB over the years, with the VTC and Nordstrand big singles. I took the plunge, and think it's a great, great axe. I may have to get it modded, as the side dots are between the "frets," which makes me nuts on fretless -and the lines are hard to see as they are faint and I am far-sighted, but adjusting the dots will do the trick. I'm not quite ready to sell the 55-94, which is a superb axe, but am headed in that direction. And then...the Will Lee on the right. It's a Metro that's seen work at the NYC Shop and from Pat Wilkins, and it sports an NYC stamp. It's also a great axe with the original single coil pickups, and is all about the grunt and punch that are not prominent on the Single-Cut.

So as I pivot toward semi-retirement on the day gig, and am splitting time between two homes as we prepare to downsize our Los Angeles presence, I'm very well-set. I have some basses to sell, but these three axes, along with my Carl Pedigo (which is headed toward some Sadowsky flatwounds) and an Xotic XB-2 (which is a beast), I'm able to grab all sorts of great tones, and each of these basses provides tremendous satisfaction. If I could only have one bass, any one of the 4 fretted basses could satisfy. My plan for the future is to keep the WL5 and my old four-string Yamaha BB2000 fretless at the second home, and hope that live music will again be part of my scene as Covid-19 recedes - which, regrettably, will take a very long time. Let's all stay safe - and sane!
7/4/20 Edit. So on Sadowsky basses, I usually keep the preamp on the lower side, with B around 30%, and T a bit less than that. I recently experimented with pushing these up a good it more on this single-cut, and was blown away by how much more girth each note had...my earlier-stated concerns about grunt and punch are greatly reduced...Happy and safe Fourth to all...
 
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