Dingwall Owners Club

[J Posega]

I know a lot about what I am about to ask can be personal and based on one’s needs... but I'll ask anyways since it's all opinions! lol I'm also struggling to choose between 4 or 5 strings. I am very comfortable playing both, so that doesn't help!

I have an awesome 3x LS Dingwall but have been wanting a PJ Dingwall as well. Those of you that have or have owned a PJ Dingwall, first, has it been a 5 or 4 and why?

-and if so, 'can' they cop out a vintage tone if you want one or are they still very modern, hi-fi, etc.? Would I gain much (more versatile, less, better playability, etc) from a PJ if I already have a 3x Lee Sklar?

-Would you 'recommend' a 4 string to complement what I have or is a 5 str. the way to go from a sonic/playability/future point?

Super P(J) can do vintage and more modern. It's a clearer tone than you get from a "traditional" P in my experience, but can easily cop retro-inspired sounds by altering hand position, tone control, or using a foam mute.

I look at the 5 string as a 4 plus 1. It can do everything the 4 can, but with an added string. I know that seems super obvious, but there's really no difference in playability. You still get 19mm string spacing on the 5 string just like you do on a 4 string. The neck is wider/thicker than ABs/Zs/Primas/Sklars but not in any way uncomfortable. Again, just different!

You might not "need" the low B on a Super P since you've got a Sklar. I feel like most gigs that "need" a 5 or low B tend to be open to more "modern" basses like the Sklar.

Either way, you can't go wrong. With a Sklar, I'd personally default to that over a Super if I was relying a lot on the low B, so I think I'd lean more towards a 4 string.

 

[singlemalt]

I’ve had both four and five string Super PJ’s, and I ended up with a four string Super P. Super simple, super light weight, does everything a P should do, with some more modern tones available through the hybrid tone control.

If I was to change anything it would be to add a bridge P tone and selector switch. Before I did any modifications, I’d probably just buy another Super PJ four and tell my wife I was selling the P. Her eyes glaze over pretty quick when I talk about basses. It could be years before she notices a new bass.

I have TI flats on it now, and switch to super light rounds when the mood strikes, sound awesome either way.

It feels super compact after playing the AB.

Both the AB and Super P weigh in at 7.5 pounds. So nice!

 

[huebass]

Super P(J) can do vintage and more modern. It's a clearer tone than you get from a "traditional" P in my experience, but can easily cop retro-inspired sounds by altering hand position, tone control, or using a foam mute.

I look at the 5 string as a 4 plus 1. It can do everything the 4 can, but with an added string. I know that seems super obvious, but there's really no difference in playability. You still get 19mm string spacing on the 5 string just like you do on a 4 string. The neck is wider/thicker than ABs/Zs/Primas/Sklars but not in any way uncomfortable. Again, just different!

You might not "need" the low B on a Super P since you've got a Sklar. I feel like most gigs that "need" a 5 or low B tend to be open to more "modern" basses like the Sklar.

Either way, you can't go wrong. With a Sklar, I'd personally default to that over a Super if I was relying a lot on the low B, so I think I'd lean more towards a 4 string.

I have been thinking similar to you but you added some additional good points. I guess it's more of FOMO if I don't have the B string that "might" sound significantly different with a P (+J) pickup than the Sklar's B string. Thanks for your input. It's helpful.

 

[huebass]

I’ve had both four and five string Super PJ’s, and I ended up with a four string Super P. Super simple, super light weight, does everything a P should do, with some more modern tones available through the hybrid tone control.

If I was to change anything it would be to add a bridge P tone and selector switch. Before I did any modifications, I’d probably just buy another Super PJ four and tell my wife I was selling the P. Her eyes glaze over pretty quick when I talk about basses. It could be years before she notices a new bass.

I have TI flats on it now, and switch to super light rounds when the mood strikes, sound awesome either way.

It feels super compact after playing the AB.

Both the AB and Super P weigh in at 7.5 pounds. So nice!

I appreciate the input. I do like to have a light bass for sure. And I am kind of in the same boat with my wife too! ha!

 

[Katoosie]

Quick question about the pots.

My ABII pots are starting to rotate with different physical impedence - some rotate more easily than others - why is that and how do I tighten them up?

I was unable to play for 2 months, my bass was in its bag, stored away.

Thanks!

 

[AB Nate]

Quick question about the pots.

My ABII pots ate starting to rotate with different physical impedence - some rotate more easily than others - why is that and how do I tighten them up?

I was unable to play for 2 months, my bass was in its bag, stored away.

Thanks!

I think perhaps, knowing the humidity issues you had with your Spector, I’d start by pulling off the knobs and hitting them all with a bit of deoxit. Also, check the nuts on the pots but only due this with the cavity open so you can monitor and internal electrical movement and do not over tighten the nuts as to create unneeded compression on the wood to avoid damaging the body/finish.

which pots move different then the others. Volume vs preamp or preamp vs preamp?

if it’s preamp vs preamp I would reach out to @Helge_Glock tp discuss this with glockenklang

 

[Katoosie]

I think perhaps, knowing the humidity issues you had with your Spector, I’d start by pulling off the knobs and hitting them all with a bit of deoxit. Also, check the nuts on the pots but only due this with the cavity open so you can monitor and internal electrical movement and do not over tighten the nuts as to create unneeded compression on the wood to avoid damaging the body/finish.

which pots move different then the others. Volume vs preamp or preamp vs preamp?

if it’s preamp vs preamp I would reach out to @Helge_Glock tp discuss this with glockenklang

Preamp vs preamp. Others are fine. Thank you. I fixed the humidty thing but I wonder if its just due to it being colder here during winter. And dry.

I'll check when I can and report back. Thank you.

 

[AB Nate]

I know a lot about what I am about to ask can be personal and based on one’s needs... but I'll ask anyways since it's all opinions! lol I'm also struggling to choose between 4 or 5 strings. I am very comfortable playing both, so that doesn't help!

I have an awesome 3x LS Dingwall but have been wanting a PJ Dingwall as well. Those of you that have or have owned a PJ Dingwall, first, has it been a 5 or 4 and why?

-and if so, 'can' they cop out a vintage tone if you want one or are they still very modern, hi-fi, etc.? Would I gain much (more versatile, less, better playability, etc) from a PJ if I already have a 3x Lee Sklar?

-Would you 'recommend' a 4 string to complement what I have or is a 5 str. the way to go from a sonic/playability/future point?

opinion incoming!!!

I play 6 string basses primarily these days. I wish I started on a 4 and stayed there….

I started on a 5 and from that moment on every time I’ve picked up a 4 I miss the B string. I’ve had some amazing 4 strings, to the point perhaps the most glorious sounding bass I ever owned may have been a streamer stage 2. It was magical.
That said, I don’t think I’d use it(if I had it still) for the music I play. Dingwalls work perfectly for me.

On the other hand, I bought a 5 string fender American jazz as my first ever jazz bass.. I took it back 2 weeks later and ordered my first custom dingwall. Sj5. Since then I’ve tried many fender jazz 5 strings and swear having a B on one is a waste of time. It’s gross. With a dingwall super series The B is definitely not gross. It’s not as articulate and defined as the long scale(LS) but it is still very clear and has a bit more thump then the LS.

One option you could try is to buy a P tone pick up for your LS(Lee sklar and long scale!!) and see what you think. I’m sure it would be easily resalable if it wasn’t your jam.

regarding Dingwall sound vs traditional/ vintage tone. The Dingwalls have a natural design to speak clearer than traditional basses and with that, can it cop old school? With Eq’ing and pedals and toobs, I’d say yes, but it still is a more precise delivery.


Regarding playability, If you're comfortable on both neck widths, lengths and string count then that to me would be a secondary concern over tonal goals or even cosmetic goals.

With that…. I believe in tone woods!! AND wood mass being a factor. What I mean by that in particular is neck wood. I do think you get different sound properties from how much wood is in the neck. Ie a 4 string will have different snap, sustain, depth vs a 6 string neck.

then compound that with types of woods used and those factors will impact how much vintage vs modern sound you get. Of course strings and electronics are huge factors in your sound and that will then lead you to pick up selection.

So I guess part of what I’m saying here is that if you are comfortable with either string count, again, I would factor in build design for tonal goals vs “do I need a B?”

I have 3 5 string supers all different enough to have pretty obviously different sounds and with that the one with the morado fingerboard and maple neck can do the most traditional sounds vs the wenge necks. One is a P, one has a P tone in the neck and one has P in the neck fwiw

 

[huebass]

opinion incoming!!!

I play 6 string basses primarily these days. I wish I started on a 4 and stayed there….

I started on a 5 and from that moment on every time I’ve picked up a 4 I miss the B string. I’ve had some amazing 4 strings, to the point perhaps the most glorious sounding bass I ever owned may have been a streamer stage 2. It was magical.
That said, I don’t think I’d use it(if I had it still) for the music I play. Dingwalls work perfectly for me.

On the other hand, I bought a 5 string fender American jazz as my first ever jazz bass.. I took it back 2 weeks later and ordered my first custom dingwall. Sj5. Since then I’ve tried many fender jazz 5 strings and swear having a B on one is a waste of time. It’s gross. With a dingwall super series The B is definitely not gross. It’s not as articulate and defined as the long scale(LS) but it is still very clear and has a bit more thump then the LS.

One option you could try is to buy a P tone pick up for your LS(Lee sklar and long scale!!) and see what you think. I’m sure it would be easily resalable if it wasn’t your jam.

regarding Dingwall sound vs traditional/ vintage tone. The Dingwalls have a natural design to speak clearer than traditional basses and with that, can it cop old school? With Eq’ing and pedals and toobs, I’d say yes, but it still is a more precise delivery.


Regarding playability, If you're comfortable on both neck widths, lengths and string count then that to me would be a secondary concern over tonal goals or even cosmetic goals.

With that…. I believe in tone woods!! AND wood mass being a factor. What I mean by that in particular is neck wood. I do think you get different sound properties from how much wood is in the neck. Ie a 4 string will have different snap, sustain, depth vs a 6 string neck.

then compound that with types of woods used and those factors will impact how much vintage vs modern sound you get. Of course strings and electronics are huge factors in your sound and that will then lead you to pick up selection.

So I guess part of what I’m saying here is that if you are comfortable with either string count, again, I would factor in build design for tonal goals vs “do I need a B?”

I have 3 5 string supers all different enough to have pretty obviously different sounds and with that the one with the morado fingerboard and maple neck can do the most traditional sounds vs the wenge necks. One is a P, one has a P tone in the neck and one has P in the neck fwiw

Wow, thanks for your input. I do agree on your points. The one I am after, a SPJ4, has wenge neck, wenge fingerboard and swamp ash body. All passive, of course. Not too familiar w wenge necks. Will it be to "aggressive" as a p bass, meaning heavy metal, rock, extremely defined tone naturally? The 5er spj has ash neck. probably different beasts!?
thanks again

 

[Lowendtech]

I have 3 5 string supers

 

[J Posega]

If you can't play the blues with whatever bass is handed to you, it's a player thing, not a bass thing.

What I mean is that I've never played a bass that, through a combination of hand position, tone control and EQ settings, and playing style couldn't suit multiple different genres, even if the bass wasn't exactly the right tool.

Are some better suited to certain genres, tones, and timbres than others? Absolutely. I don't think a Spector is the best tool for playing Jamerson-style Motown, but it can be done! Just like a hollowbody short scale isn't the ideal tool for prog metal.

We're not comparing hammers to screwdrivers here, they're all hammers, it's just that some hammers are better suited to certain jobs than others..

I wouldn't worry about a P bass being "too aggressive" as a passive P bass. You can always tame it with EQ or playing style or strings.

 

[huebass]

If you can't play the blues with whatever bass is handed to you, it's a player thing, not a bass thing.

What I mean is that I've never played a bass that, through a combination of hand position, tone control and EQ settings, and playing style couldn't suit multiple different genres, even if the bass wasn't exactly the right tool.

Are some better suited to certain genres, tones, and timbres than others? Absolutely. I don't think a Spector is the best tool for playing Jamerson-style Motown, but it can be done! Just like a hollowbody short scale isn't the ideal tool for prog metal.

We're not comparing hammers to screwdrivers here, they're all hammers, it's just that some hammers are better suited to certain jobs than others..

I wouldn't worry about a P bass being "too aggressive" as a passive P bass. You can always tame it with EQ or playing style or strings.

I get ya sir. I agree that one can pretty much do the job with any bass generally speaking. I was asking in a similar fashion...just generalizing and speaking for fun about the "theory" of tone woods, asking someone who owns these types. And if I am going to buy one, I would prefer to just start in the direction that gets me to where I'd like to go with such instrument. If it was going to be given to me for free or a steal of a buy, then hec yeah! who cares! I'll take the bass in any flavor lol But you're right, in many instances the specs of a bass don't matter much when it comes down to playing well and making good music.

 

[AB Nate]

Wow, thanks for your input. I do agree on your points. The one I am after, a SPJ4, has wenge neck, wenge fingerboard and swamp ash body. All passive, of course. Not too familiar w wenge necks. Will it be to "aggressive" as a p bass, meaning heavy metal, rock, extremely defined tone naturally? The 5er spj has ash neck. probably different beasts!?
thanks again

That said, the spj4 may sound very similar to @IvanBassist s bass. His vids are all over this thread and elsewhere with a quick search.

I’d speculate the roasted ash neck would open up and “crisp” up the tone somewhat but you may gain a bit of depth or presence from the additional mass. Speculations of a guy reading too deeply into things probably…

wenge always seems to make things very tight and punctuated to me. Fumbling on words here but it’s kind of like putting on your glasses when Your eyes are tired.

 

[AB Nate]

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Alright Rich!
One quick photo but I gotta stop playing with these things and get back to work

 

[Lowendtech]

Alright Rich!
One quick photo but I gotta stop playing with these things and get back to work
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Thank you. I’ll go get my wallet.

 

[AmazingMumford]

Alright Rich!
One quick photo but I gotta stop playing with these things and get back to work

So...what's peeking out from behind the couch? Other than the oars.

 

[IvanBassist]

Wow, thanks for your input. I do agree on your points. The one I am after, a SPJ4, has wenge neck, wenge fingerboard and swamp ash body. All passive, of course. Not too familiar w wenge necks. Will it be to "aggressive" as a p bass, meaning heavy metal, rock, extremely defined tone naturally? The 5er spj has ash neck. probably different beasts!?
thanks again

Those are the specs of my Super PJ and I use to for rock, reggae, latin, metal, etc. It’s a great bass!

You should be able to find some soundclips by doing a quick Youtube search for “ivanbassist” on Youtube (i am not allowed to post direct link due to TB rules)

 

[AB Nate]

Thank you. I’ll go get my wallet.

package deal!! All 3- $1 million dollars

 

[retroXvertigo]

Dingwall finally posted my bass in their story. Nice to see a fancy picture of it.

 

[Smallmouth_Bass]

Dingwall finally posted my bass in their story. Nice to see a fancy picture of it.

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Why so blue?

I love it!