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G&L Club Part 7

Not bad at all and I would credit both the bridge and pickups with that to a degree. The clarity is there.

The set it came with were a bit too light for me so I put on a set of DR Blues and got a nicer feel. I'll leave those on for a bit but feel I'm gonna eventually end up with a set of GHS Pressurewounds like those on my Jazz Bass. The tension is a bit higher and it'll reduce some of the "clank" it get from the rounds now although a little adjustment in my technique could help that too. Playing flats has spoiled me. LOL
Holy Donkey balls... Flats and a five string, hard to believe you ever leave this thread at all. Lol.
 
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I didn't know that Trib ASAT's existed! I too kept my Fenders, and other than the highly collectible ones, I still play them in less than desirable venues, because I won't cry if one gets beat up... Where's with the G&L's I'd have to go for therapy. Speaking of... @Mammoth_Bass any luck with tooth paste?
Toothpaste didn't seem to do the trick but the cutting compound did!
 
Love that finish, especially with the maple fretboard! I'm such a sucker for bursts .....

Congrats!
And don't let it fall into the wrong hands!
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How are the low B's on the L2500's?

The best of the 5's that I've been able to play. (For the record, that list doesn't include anything above a $4000 price tag - there aren't many of the high end boutique basses available locally and I don't search them out, so I couldn't fairly or accurately compare them)
Warning! Subjective content matter ahead!
On both my old 1505 and my current 2500, I've found that the tension is just right: neither piano tight, nor a sloppy, clanky rubber band. They hold intonation really well and stay in tune (except my 2500 which, after sitting for a few hours, will have the bass side of the neck go out of tune slightly sharp... but that's a different discussion :laugh:). The G&L's seem to do the low B the best, in my opinion. They sound great, there is no really jarring jump down to the B string like I've experienced on other 5 stringers. The transitions to and from the B are natural and not forced. The G&L neck design gives you the heft necessary to keep the tension on the strings but not put a huge 2x4 on a slab and expect that you can "work around the necessary design criteria".
Warning! Extremely subjective content trigger ahead!
I know you were asking about the B string in particular but what I think makes the G&L low B so unique is their neck. I tend to gauge a neck by how fast I can play on it without feeling any ill effect caused by string placement, fret edges getting in the way, the finish of the neck feeling sticky, etc. (not design flaws but just the actual makeup of the neck and how the instrument is built) My 5 string G&L's have all consistently fallen in right between my 6 string and 7 string guitars but before most of my four string basses.
 
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I have new respect for Phil Lynott (Thin Lizzy). I just learned The Boys are Back in Town for a cover band I'm playing with. It sounds deceptively simple, but there's some good stuff going on there! Oh, and I was playing it tonight on my '84 G&L SB-2 in Bahama Blue. ;)
Indeed. I had to learn that song 5 years ago, and I was impressed with what he was doing. It isn't as easy as it may sound.
 
I read that hours ago... I didn't say a word... I just waited for you to pick on me
Aw, sorry dude, I've been ignoring you this week haven't I? I was on vacation and then when I got back yesterday, the place that gives me lots of money every week actually expected me to, like, you know... actually do something in exchange for it! The unmitigated gall of theirs was appalling! Hmph.. work! Don't they know that I'm a rock star?!?!

Anyway... back to your original point, then:
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Aw, sorry dude, I've been ignoring you this week haven't I? I was on vacation and then when I got back yesterday, the place that gives me lots of money every week actually expected me to, like, you know... actually do something in exchange for it! The unmitigated gall of theirs was appalling! Hmph.. work! Don't they know that I'm a rock star?!?!

Anyway... back to your original point, then:
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Well... thanks to you, I actually had to work. I slave over a hot stove all day... on trivial poo poo threads, scouring the wasteland, trying to wrangle in all the G&L folks who've wandered, only to come back here and find this! Why can't it be like when we first met?

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Now... for something completely different: A bass related post!

Here is my reworked board with the latest addition of a new power supply (Walrus Audio Phoenix - 15 isolated outputs!) and, the item tying it to this thread, my newest OD pedal, the Ampeg Scrambler fresh from @Mammoth_Bass !
(no, I don't play with them all on, I just wanted to see what they all looked like when they're all lit up and purty!)
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The B is good. As like with any bass ya gotta try a few string to find what works with it.

EB Cobalt rounds - massive bright high output plus the MFDs. Would be better if the B was a 130.

Surprisingly good and cheap the B fits with the rest of the set- Dunlop super brights.

Chrome's - the B was too thuddy.

GHS Brite Flats - really nice balance of bright and feel tension pretty even across the set.

DR low riders nickle good but a bit scooped on this.

Labella tapes which I like on other basses, not so much on Sparkle.

GHS big core stainless... Played nice clank city.

Sadowsky Blue label nickle rounds - stellar B solid thick mids good highs.

Now, Labella low tension flats - mmm good brings a different tone to the palate, lower output, but supple and woody. Not floppy, sinuous.

Overall the B is very good. It fits well with the rest of the set.

****Addendum. I play 1/2 step down at all times.

That's a lot of good info. For my 2 cents, I switched to the Dunlop Nickle Super Brights on my L2500 and haven't looked back. They fit through the body, they sound great (to me at least), they last and they are inexpensive.
 
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