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Rattle Can Refinish Club

The "chameleon" clear coat did take. Going to look good polished up and under the stage lights.
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Question for all you rattle can aficionados: do you ever get a can where the paint comes out in blobs partially? You’ll be going along just fine and then find there’s a couple blobs of wet paint on the surface?
Is there a way to fix cans like that? Or does that only happen to me?
On my recent project I got five cans of clear, one of them did the blob spray (thlree were fine, and one had a different problem). I contacted the manufacturer and they said in twenty years of making rattle cans they never had a problem like that.... appreciate y’all’s feedback on this!

I had that problem an am 99% sure it was because my paint was old. Really old, like maybe 10 years. Krylon covermaxx or colormaxx or whatever it was called...SUCKS. Every coat would wrinkle the coat underneath even with weeks or months of drying time.
And yup....it would come out in blobs even after warming the can in warm water, spraying in low humidity, shaking the can like a fool for 5 minutes straight, etc.

The manufacturer probably hasn’t used his own products in 20 years!

I finally wet sanded, buffed, polished it ridiculously and it looks passable.. it was just bad acrylic lacquer paint.

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It looks ok but don’t try to wipe down with naphtha, the paint will come off. It’s also melting where my arm rests on it...

Yeah...I hate Krylon. I’ve got another kit guitar coming and my game plan is to toss the can immediately if it starts coming out in chunks like that. I actually think I’m done with acrylic lacquer for that reason. I just started using minwax spray poly clear. Wow...it comes out of the can evenly.
 
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I don't know if this helps, but it's an acrylic lacquer.

Also, if that's still good to use the varathane over, should I go with water based or oil based?
You can put oil based or water based over water based. You can't in general put water based over oil based. It's an acrylate, which could mean either. I'm assuming that duplicolor uses non water based solvents. I would still use the oil based as it will cure more slowly, but be harder and more durable.
 
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Can anyone suggest a satin clear coat to spray over duplicolor metallic?

I realized I'm not prepped to shoot 2K, and duplicolor doesn't make a satin clear that I can find.

Thanks!
I don't know if this helps, but it's an acrylic lacquer.

Also, if that's still good to use the varathane over, should I go with water based or oil based?
As a general rule an oil-based varnish can be applied over completely dry acrylic paint with no problems, polyurethane usually works best for me but keep in mind oil-based varnishes can yellow over time.

Man that color is killer! The more I look the more I like! This is what I used on the that headstock over dupli-color black gloss.
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As a general rule an oil-based varnish can be applied over completely dry acrylic paint with no problems, polyurethane usually works best for me but keep in mind oil-based varnishes can yellow over time.

Man that color is killer! The more I look the more I like! This is what I used on the that headstock over dupli-color black gloss.
View attachment 3984344

Yeah, the color is pretty dang nice. Perfect Match Bright Aqua Metallic.

How many coats of satin did you do? Any sanding between?
 
Yeah, the color is pretty dang nice. Perfect Match Bright Aqua Metallic.

How many coats of satin did you do? Any sanding between?
Hey thanks for that, may have to refinish a spare but I think alot of the appeal with that color is in that contour. It was 4 or 5 coats no sandind in between about 8-10 minutes apart. 48 hour cure. Final was just a super light wet sand, (almost no pressure) and soaked the wet sand paper in water and added few drops of dish soap then hand buffed with pinball field wax, You may may not want to sand the satin at all though...I bet any auto wax would be fine...
 
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Hey thanks for that, may have to refinish a spare but I think alot of the appeal with that color is in that contour. It was 4 or 5 coats no sandind in between about 8-10 minutes apart. Final was just a light wet sand, soaked the wetsand paper in water and added couple drops of dish soap dried 48 hours then hand buffed with pinball field wax, I bet any auto wax would be fine though...

The body was from an old Danelectro Rumor bass. I converted it to medium scale with an SX neck. I bought it used, and it looked like this when I got it:

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Whoa...massive improvement!
It's gonna look killer! Take your time nice even slightly overlapping fairly wet coats don't over do it. I am impatient but also believe I get a better bond with shorter than recomended in-between dry times. Can says never more than two hours in-between coats...
YMMV.
 
View attachment 3983865

I had that problem an am 99% sure it was because my paint was old. Really old, like maybe 10 years. Krylon covermaxx or colormaxx or whatever it was called...SUCKS. Every coat would wrinkle the coat underneath even with weeks or months of drying time.
And yup....it would come out in blobs even after warming the can in warm water, spraying in low humidity, shaking the can like a fool for 5 minutes straight, etc.

The manufacturer probably hasn’t used his own products in 20 years!

I finally wet sanded, buffed, polished it ridiculously and it looks passable.. it was just bad acrylic lacquer paint.

View attachment 3983866

View attachment 3983869

It looks ok but don’t try to wipe down with naphtha, the paint will come off. It’s also melting where my arm rests on it...

Yeah...I hate Krylon. I’ve got another kit guitar coming and my game plan is to toss the can immediately if it starts coming out in chunks like that. I actually think I’m done with acrylic lacquer for that reason. I just started using minwax spray poly clear. Wow...it comes out of the can evenly.
It's good that you were able to salvage it. :thumbsup:
 
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