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SPECTOR® Club - Part 46

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So my black NS-2A is set to arrive tomorrow. Depending on how I like it, I may upgrade to some active EMG's, mod the preamp to accept the new pups, and throw on some gold hardware. Not sure if I wanna give it a "boob job" as I kinda dig the look with the dots.

I'll post pics and my impressions tomorrow.
 
My Girls!!!!
 

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If you like 12s, check out the Hartke Hydrive 112. Killer cab, super flexible, and has variable impedence. You can run it at 4ohms by itself or switch it 8 ohms to add a second cab with it. I love mine! More low end thud than my 210 cab used to have, but without the weight and size of a 15.
Very nice! The reason I'm looking at 210's , 212 is because I want the 410 or 412 setup without having to lift the whole heavy cab. Singles aren't what I'm needing. Unless their 15's that is. Thank you!

Ok, so finally I can join the famous Spector club.

Got a ReBop 5 today. And I am extremely impressed!

2012-10-17173352.jpg


Love it love it love it!

As primarily a Warwick man, I am absolutely blown away by the comfort, speed and lack of buzz/dead spots on this bass. I just. I have no words. It's up there with my favorite Wick.

Can't wait to get more of these! :D
Congrats! Welcome to the gateway Spector! :D
 
Very nice - my first Spector is a Euro 5LX that looks just like yours. So pretty!

That one on the far left - seems like it has a lighter fingerboard wood, almost like what they use on the US Spectors but it looks like a Euro. Custom option?

I'm betting it is a NS-2 from the transition period...
 
I used to have a ReBop 5 DLX which I received compliments on the tone all the time. It had tone, volume and growl forever! If want more grit change the string nut to brass nut. I did it to mine and it was like a different bass altogether, in a great way!. :bassist:

Is it just as simple as pulling off the original nut with pliers and then gluing on the new brass one? I've thought about a brass nut on my Rebop, but seems a bit intimidating.

Also, where do you get the nut, does Spector sell them?
 
If you mean the one on the right! :) Yes the board is lighter wood and it is a euro. I think it's one of the earlier euro's but not sure. I have to calL PJ on that. The white bass is from Brooklyn USA #949 (1984-5) They all sound different!!!!
 
Very nice - my first Spector is a Euro 5LX that looks just like yours. So pretty!

That one on the far left - seems like it has a lighter fingerboard wood, almost like what they use on the US Spectors but it looks like a Euro. Custom option?

If you mean the one on the right! Yes the board is lighter wood and it is a euro. I think it's one of the earlier euro's but not sure. I have to calL PJ on that. The white bass is from Brooklyn USA #949 (1984-5) They all sound different!!!!
 
Is it just as simple as pulling off the original nut with pliers and then gluing on the new brass one? I've thought about a brass nut on my Rebop, but seems a bit intimidating.

Also, where do you get the nut, does Spector sell them?

Nut comes off pretty easy and I don't glue the nut back. I have several brass nuts that I ordered for my basses that accomodate larger gauges so when I change up or down I switch out the nut. I take some off the nut till I get the height I want with the gague used. The new brass Spector nuts need to be filed down to fit. A belt sander or file works well. Easy to do just take your time.

Spector has them for something like 28 shipped. You have to send them a email they are not on the oline store.
 
Nut comes off pretty easy and I don't glue the nut back. I have several brass nuts that I ordered for my basses that accomodate larger gauges so when I change up or down I switch out the nut. I take some off the nut till I get the height I want with the gague used. The new brass Spector nuts need to be filed down to fit. A belt sander or file works well. Easy to do just take your time.

Spector has them for something like 28 shipped. You have to send them a email they are not on the oline store.

Regarding the bold, I know the strings typically hold a nut in place, but what about side to side movement? Does the nut fit in kind of snugly anyway?

I'm getting ready to make one of my Euro 5's standard A with a 150 Circle K set, and if I could preserve the stock nut and just interchange them easily that would be great. I just figured all the re-gluing would suck.
 
Nut stays in place for me fine. String tension works to keep it seated. If I drop tune I always setup in between the two. Ex: D to C would be setup at C# intonation. That way you lose very little string tension and it stays in tune in the higher register.
 
Part of my plan with setting the 5-string up ADGCF is there's a good chance my guitarist is going to play some tunes in drop C#. Now normally I would just play that on a standard B tuned 5'er, but some of the riffs might not play naturally that way. I already have my two 435's set up BEAD and drop C for non-band purposes, and I didn't really want to dedicate one bass to drop C#.

So I'm thinking I can just drop the D in ADGCF to C# when needed. I'm thinking 1/2 step in pitch shouldn't be too bad for tension loss. Then I still have the low A under it to play walk up notes like A, B and B#. :)
 
Is it just as simple as pulling off the original nut with pliers and then gluing on the new brass one? I've thought about a brass nut on my Rebop, but seems a bit intimidating.

Also, where do you get the nut, does Spector sell them?

Stick with the nut you currently have. I wached an interview with Roger Sadowsky and he said the nut only affects open stringed notes. I dont know how true that is but i figure he knows more than i do. My Rebop still has the original nut which is some composite material i believe and that bass has massive amounts of sustain.
 
bunkaroo said:
Part of my plan with setting the 5-string up ADGCF is there's a good chance my guitarist is going to play some tunes in drop C#. Now normally I would just play that on a standard B tuned 5'er, but some of the riffs might not play naturally that way. I already have my two 435's set up BEAD and drop C for non-band purposes, and I didn't really want to dedicate one bass to drop C#.

So I'm thinking I can just drop the D in ADGCF to C# when needed. I'm thinking 1/2 step in pitch shouldn't be too bad for tension loss. Then I still have the low A under it to play walk up notes like A, B and B#. :)

Should work fine
 
delucajohn2000 said:
Stick with the nut you currently have. I wached an interview with Roger Sadowsky and he said the nut only affects open stringed notes. I dont know how true that is but i figure he knows more than i do. My Rebop still has the original nut which is some composite material i believe and that bass has massive amounts of sustain.

I love the sound of the brass and the open a, if you play metal and ride the open C or A I would say go for it. Gives the notes a little more growl but for other styles its probably not worth it.
 
I love the sound of the brass and the open a, if you play metal and ride the open C or A I would say go for it. Gives the notes a little more growl but for other styles its probably not worth it.

Ok, maybe my original post was a bit harsh :) For what you mentioned though, I can definitely understand the switch but would recommend getting a replacement through Spector if you were going to do it.
 
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