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Squier Vintage Modified Precision V: who's got one?

#2,121
Sgroh87 said:
Anyone here know if a Warmoth neck will fit one of these? I've been thinking about getting a fretless neck for this bass, but they say that they may not fit brands other than Fender. I'd hate to spend $300 or more on a neck, only for it to be incompatible.
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I'd wager that the Warmoth is wider, looking for Squier pocket specs, meantime here is the Warmoth notes:
Deluxe 5 Series Neck Pocket Specs
neck_pocket_deluxe.jpg

This newer Fender design is in metric dimensions. Please note that early Deluxe necks have smaller heels (also have top adjusting truss rods) Warmoth only offers bodies to the later specifications (also matching the replacement necks we offer.)

Standard 5 J Bass® Neck Pocket Specs
neck_pocket_bneckStandard5.jpg

This is the standard neck pocket for our Standard 5 bodies.

Please Note:

  1. Our Standard 5 bodies are incompatible with our Deluxe 5 necks. They are designed for our Standard 5 necks ONLY.
  2. Our Standard 5 bodies are patterned after Fender® MIM Standard 5 bodies. We cannot guarantee compatibility with any other vendor.
 
#2,124
Please save me undoing all the screws to find out: which pots and cap come stock in these? I have customized my VMPV and MIM Fender P4 to match, but was surprised to find as noticeable a difference in tone between the two after putting the same pickups in each. At this point, the only explanations would be different body wood and/or different pots/cap. They sound similar enough that it’s not a problem, but I will go under the pickguard again if changing the guts would get them even closer. Thank you for any help you can provide.
 
#2,125
Riff Ranger said:
Please save me undoing all the screws to find out: which pots and cap come stock in these? I have customized my VMPV and MIM Fender P4 to match, but was surprised to find as noticeable a difference in tone between the two after putting the same pickups in each. At this point, the only explanations would be different body wood and/or different pots/cap. They sound similar enough that it’s not a problem, but I will go under the pickguard again if changing the guts would get them even closer. Thank you for any help you can provide.
Click to expand...
Dime pots, unknown MFG. 250k Audio taper. (hated the tone pot taper more of on/off only affected tone in the last 10 percent of rotation.
I upgraded mine to 250k CTS audio taper w/sprague 470 cap. switchcraft Mono Jack, Gannet cloth hookup wire
Were i to make a choice NOW i'd go with 500k Lin Taper Vol 250k CTS TVT tone
 
#2,126
/\/\3phist0 said:
Dime pots, unknown MFG. 250k Audio taper. (hated the tone pot taper more of on/off only affected tone in the last 10 percent of rotation.
I upgraded mine to 250k CTS audio taper w/sprague 470 cap. switchcraft Mono Jack, Gannet cloth hookup wire
Were i to make a choice NOW i'd go with 500k Lin Taper Vol 250k CTS TVT tone
Click to expand...
Thank you for the quick and helpful reply. I will have to look into it but I suspect my 2010 Fender Standard Precision (MIM) also uses 250k pots. I generally run volume and tone both wide open, so I wonder whether swapping pots would change much.
 
#2,129
Riff Ranger said:
Thank you for the quick and helpful reply. I will have to look into it but I suspect my 2010 Fender Standard Precision (MIM) also uses 250k pots. I generally run volume and tone both wide open, so I wonder whether swapping pots would change much.
Click to expand...
Quality control on the pots in these things is also a bit iffy. They are built to a price in Indonesia, after all.

Depending on random selection of parts during assembly, you might end up with one at the wrong end of the tolerance range.

That definitely happened to me. When I measured the volume and tone pots on my VMPV, they were very low, well beyond even normal 10% tolerances. That loaded the pickup down, and made it sound a bit mushy.

However, I also noticed that the acoustic output was on the warmer side compared to most of the Fenders on the wall at my local dealer. So while I was busy routing and prepping it for a PJ setup with an Am Std at the neck and a DiMarzio Area J at the bridge, I swapped in sealed Bournes 500K pots. They measured pretty much spot-on, just a hair over 500K each.

At least for a PJ setup with VVT controls, I found that this had a very positive effect on the tone.

On a passive bass, you can always reduce the brightness and definition by backing off the volume or the tone a hair. But if it isn't there in the first place, you can't boost what you don't have...
 
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#2,130
steve_rolfeca said:
Quality control on the pots in these things is also a bit iffy. They are built to a price in Indonesia, after all.

Depending on random selection of parts during assembly, you might end up with one at the wrong end of the tolerance range.

That definitely happened to me. When I measured the volume and tone pots on my VMPV, they were very low, well beyond even normal 10% tolerances. That loaded the pickup down, and made it sound a bit mushy.

However, I also noticed that the acoustic output was on the warmer side compared to most of the Fenders on the wall at my local dealer. So while I was busy routing and prepping it for a PJ setup with an Am Std at the neck and a DiMarzio Area J at the bridge, I swapped in sealed Bournes 500K pots. They measured pretty much spot-on, just a hair over 500K each.

At least for a PJ setup with VVT controls, I found that this had a very positive effect on the tone.

On a passive bass, you can always reduce the brightness and definition by backing off the volume or the tone a hair. But if it isn't there in the first place, you can't boost what you don't have...
Click to expand...
Hence my suggestion of a 500k linear, you roll vol down @1/2 you have the approximation of a 250k pot.
Rolling back the volume attenuates the highs back that get passed to the jack due to the 500k resisting bleeding less treble and signal to ground. The linear taper smooths the fade of the knob, instead of all of the usable space being between 10 and 7 before falling off the cliff.
Additionally by keeping the tone at 250k,-Audio you retain the familiar response . It's like having a treble / volume boost with the volume knob, with little lost in the compromise!
 
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#2,131
steve_rolfeca said:
Quality control on the pots in these things is also a bit iffy. They are built to a price in Indonesia, after all.

Depending on random selection of parts during assembly, you might end up with one at the wrong end of the tolerance range.
Click to expand...
This sounds like what’s going on. I have had three different pickups in this thing, and while the replacements (M&V Atlas and Seymour Duncan Quarter Pound) both sound pretty good, the SD QP sounds noticeably mid-i-er and mushier than it does in the MIM 4-string.

Meanwhile, the stock electronics in my SS VM Jaguar sound quite good ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Thank you also for your quick and helpful reply.
 
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#2,132
Rezdog said:
Greetings from the North,

tedsalt:
How are you liking the 500K linear taper volume control in conjunction with the Tonestyler? I've been running a Tonestyler in mine and it works great.

Rezdog
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I haven't really utilized the volume control much. It's usually all the way up or off. With the tonestyler I typically find a setting I like and keep it there.

The CTS pot, Tonestyler and switchcraft jack are fairly good quality, so they're items I typically don't worry about.
 
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#2,134
/\/\3phist0 said:
The Omega IS a nice bridge but the Hipshot Kickass is nicer, with the adjustable spacing.
Omega:
%2524_57__85408.1491831079.1024.768.jpg


Hipshot:
%2524_57__00257.1490794574.1024.768.jpg


I went with the USA fender deluxe (non high mass) and drilled for String through (btw don't bother with string through)
fender-american-deluxe-5-string-bass-bridge-1200x900.jpg
Click to expand...

@/\/\3phist0 Can you tell me if the 4 screw holes in this USA Deluxe bridge lined up with the middle 4 holes of the VM P5 body, or did you have to fill & re-drill? Thanks!
 

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