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The Mike Lull Club Part 4

#2,061
@JES : Here are the pics as promised. I wasn't able to break out the DSLR right so these are from the iPhone...

For everybody else, behold...one of my M5V's. Natural, BEM fretboard, stock SD pickups, Aggie OBD-3 preamp. (just showing the natural w/ tort guard to JES)

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#2,067
Dave W said:
Weird. How often were you adjusting them?

I've had aluminum and brass A Style bridges for over 10 years and they function perfectly.
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B string threads really tight and g string saddle lowers itself after around 1 hour of playing. Really weird but fixed now, just bought a DR Sunbeam 130 B string instead of the old 125, I am told Mike fits a 130 at build is that right?
 
#2,068
JES said:
Hi Everyone

My new Lull badly needs new strings. I boiled the strings that had been on it in the store (for at least 8 months) but they still sound a little dead to me. I need some string recommendations for my specific application.

On this bass, I'd like an aggressive rock tone and strong mids and lower mids. I generally play with a strong attack with my fingers (i.e., close to the tone of a pick). I figure the Ash/Maple/Single Coil combo gets me close and so I need strings with good lower mids to get me all the way there.Sometimes I then roll off all the highs for a more dub-tone. My amp is an Orange TB500 and I have been known to use overdrive. I tend to favour the front pickup or both pickups (I don't do the super clean nasal bridge sound). What do you recommend? Bonus for sets available in balanced tension.

I like the Kalliums but they won't go through the body. Unless you all tell me that the through body on the B-string is not needed. But Mike seems to think it's needed.

Thank you, and apologies if this has been covered in the last 100 pages or parts 1-3 of the thread--I will have to catch up on my reading.

--JES
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The B string definitely does not need to be strung through the body for good tension and tone. After trying out a few different types of strings on my M5V I settled on DR Hi-Beams (which I don't string through the body) and they've been working out great for the past couple of years (well, not the same set mind you ;)).
 
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#2,076
taylor16 said:
Anyone know the best way to replace a pickguard on a M4(5)V? Do I need to loosen the screws holding the neck in place to slot the pickguard in?
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You don't need to do that. You should be able to work the pickguard down into place without anything else coming off the bass. At least that is true for my Lull. I change out the pickguard one or twice a year as I have a dual JJ/PJ route in my bass and like to change it up.
 
#2,078
taylor16 said:
I asked this in the Rocket Music sponsored forum but might get a quicker response here:

Does Mike offer nitro finishes at this time? Apparently he did a couple of years ago but am uncertain if this is still a possibility? If so- what would the cost be?
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I ordered my V4 two years ago and I asked the same question. The guys at Lull eventually said they would do nitro, but the upcharge was more than I was willing to pay. Their standard finish is very good. I like the way nitro finishes age, but that's about the only difference that I can tell.
 
#2,079
I've been playing my new M5V every day in the middle of a busy week.

The neck finally seems to have settled (it needed a lot of adjusting--wasn't in a great spot in the store). I put on an almost-new set of D'Addario XL-165-5s and that's good until a couple sets for experimenting arrive (balanced tension--I love balanced tension). I am loving the sound of the bass passive, and the playability. Going from 5 back to 4 always felt liberating. Now it doesn't.

BUT I'm a little unsure about the Aguilar pre. I like a good rock tone. But I am missing a tone control. So:

1. Has anyone worked in a tone control with your OBP-3 without adding more knobs to your control plate? How did you do it? or
2. Has anyone figured out a good setting on the OBP-3 to simulate a passive tone roll-off? Cutting all the highs doesn't seem to do it.

I see this has been done with the Bartolini pre, and I know it's a feature on Auderes (that's an interesting alternative). I suppose I could change the mid tones to switches and add a passive tone knob in the place of the mid knob. Or maybe there's a way to do a stacked pot, except the Aggie pot is 50k….
 

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