Thanks Captain, that would be very helpful.
I would bet its the same preamp/circuit board
I would bet its the same preamp/circuit board
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The Samick Club
- Thread starter JeffTheBig
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Actually the Ibby sound gear are mostly of the Cort persuasion, especially if made in Indonesia.
The basses I listed above are all Artcore basses, which are made in Korea.
My Sound Gear fretless Portamento and 1200 Premium are of the Cort persuasion.
Check out the Cort Artisan bass series for similarities to Ibby Sound Gearbasses.
Between Samick and Cort they make the most guitars and basses in the entire world.
The basses I listed above are all Artcore basses, which are made in Korea.
My Sound Gear fretless Portamento and 1200 Premium are of the Cort persuasion.
Check out the Cort Artisan bass series for similarities to Ibby Sound Gearbasses.
Between Samick and Cort they make the most guitars and basses in the entire world.
Trying to reach Shakey_Slim . He hasn't been on in about 2 or 3 months. Anyone have an email addy or anything?
Thanks, but I've tried PMs. Looks like he hasn't been around here in 2 months. Thought someone might know him and have a twitter or email contact.
He did get the bass in question rewired based on pics I sent him of my 4 string. I will look for any old contacts I may have had with him.
Sorry guys, I'm not usually logged in anymore.
Fretlessman, got your pm. ☺
Fretlessman, got your pm. ☺
Looks like I may be back in the club. After getting a wee bit of cash back from the Govt, I decided to pick up a cheap setup to restart my bass playing "career". A local second hand shop has a Samick GB Corsair 5'er for $125.00 I may grab. One thing odd is the maple fretboard. Not that I don't like them, but unusual in this range, I think. I was looking at the Tune they have, but it's still way out of my budget, ($595.00) even for layaway. They also have a Typhoon (very similar layout, rosewood fretboard, neck is OK, all controls work) but I'm wary of them. The Samick needs work, but I don't think it's too far gone, as long as the truss rod isn't broken. The neck has a slight back bow, which somebody tried to fix by jacking up the bridge to the point the intonation is terrible. Not the first time I've had to deal with that, though. One control doesn't seem to work, but the other two do with no scratchiness. Output is solid, a rarity in second hand shop instruments. Teaming it up with a Traynor TBM 10 amp for $55.00. I might be able to talk them down a wee bit and get a stand as well. If I do get it, pics will be posted.
One control doesn't seem to work, but the other two do with no scratchiness. Output is solid, a rarity in second hand shop instruments. Teaming it up with a Traynor TBM 10 amp for $55.00. I might be able to talk them down a wee bit and get a stand as well. If I do get it, pics will be posted.
NiceLooks like I may be back in the club. After getting a wee bit of cash back from the Govt, I decided to pick up a cheap setup to restart my bass playing "career". A local second hand shop has a Samick GB Corsair 5'er for $125.00 I may grab. One thing odd is the maple fretboard. Not that I don't like them, but unusual in this range, I think. I was looking at the Tune they have, but it's still way out of my budget, ($595.00) even for layaway. They also have a Typhoon (very similar layout, rosewood fretboard, neck is OK, all controls work) but I'm wary of them. The Samick needs work, but I don't think it's too far gone, as long as the truss rod isn't broken. The neck has a slight back bow, which somebody tried to fix by jacking up the bridge to the point the intonation is terrible. Not the first time I've had to deal with that, though.
Seems to be a few of these in 4 string version on REVERB
Samick Bennett Corsair Bass Guitar | Evolution Music
How are these? Do they also make a Jazz bass version?
I guess that would be the Fairlane?
Aloha TB.
Looks like I'm going to be elegible to be a member of the Samick Club too. Next week am going to buy a Samick short scale pj bass (with id as SOB-PJ-WH) for $120. I'm pretty sure the WH means WHite and PJ refers to the Precision Jazz pups. Still cant figure out what the SOB means, pretty sure it dont mean the epithet (altho Ive been cussing that a lot due to the lack of information on this model on the 'net). Don't even know the model name. And theres no serial, but was told that Samick didnt start using that until after the 80s. I've been told that the bass was made in the 80s.
Here are some photos (provided by the seller), I will post my own pics after i buy it. Hopefully someone here can enlighten me as to what I'm getting?
Thanks and Mahalo in advance!
-Lan
PS: I think I WILL name this one, the "S.O.B." (LOL)
Front Full Body
Front Body Detail
Headstock Front Detail
Neck Mounting Plate Detail (With Identifying Sticker)
Looks like I'm going to be elegible to be a member of the Samick Club too. Next week am going to buy a Samick short scale pj bass (with id as SOB-PJ-WH) for $120. I'm pretty sure the WH means WHite and PJ refers to the Precision Jazz pups. Still cant figure out what the SOB means, pretty sure it dont mean the epithet (altho Ive been cussing that a lot due to the lack of information on this model on the 'net). Don't even know the model name. And theres no serial, but was told that Samick didnt start using that until after the 80s. I've been told that the bass was made in the 80s.
Here are some photos (provided by the seller), I will post my own pics after i buy it. Hopefully someone here can enlighten me as to what I'm getting?
Thanks and Mahalo in advance!
-Lan
PS: I think I WILL name this one, the "S.O.B." (LOL)
Front Full Body
Front Body Detail
Headstock Front Detail
Neck Mounting Plate Detail (With Identifying Sticker)
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Nice. You are correct with the PJ -WH designations. Doing some searching, I found the SOB designation in the Japanese Market line. Hope that helps a bit. Japanese Market
Mine turned out to be a project of sorts. The back bow on the neck is worse than I thought, and if I raise the bridge to compensate, the saddles fall off the Allen screws.
If the neck needs a shim at the back, I can do that, but getting the back bow out is a pain. I tried just clamping it down, but that didn't do much. Then I tried the weight (books) in a bag under a 100w bulb trick. That made it a little better, so now I have it clamped to a desk right under the light (about 6" away) with a forced relief of about 5 mm at the 6th fret where the bow seems most prevalent. I'll leave it there for a few hours and see if there is any change in height. I don't want to leave it overnight, though. It also has a slight twist treble to bass at the nut. From what research I've found, this isn't too critical, and can be adjusted for.
On the plus side, I did get the pots cleaned up and the pups adjusted for better response.
Mine turned out to be a project of sorts. The back bow on the neck is worse than I thought, and if I raise the bridge to compensate, the saddles fall off the Allen screws.
If the neck needs a shim at the back, I can do that, but getting the back bow out is a pain. I tried just clamping it down, but that didn't do much. Then I tried the weight (books) in a bag under a 100w bulb trick. That made it a little better, so now I have it clamped to a desk right under the light (about 6" away) with a forced relief of about 5 mm at the 6th fret where the bow seems most prevalent. I'll leave it there for a few hours and see if there is any change in height. I don't want to leave it overnight, though. It also has a slight twist treble to bass at the nut. From what research I've found, this isn't too critical, and can be adjusted for. On the plus side, I did get the pots cleaned up and the pups adjusted for better response.
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Aloha Ayce,
Thank you Ayce, nice to have a bit of verification to my gut feeling guesses. Yeah, saw that page earlier. Its one of those pages where i cussed "S.O.B.!" when I saw that the entry is just a single line of plain text ("SOB") with no linking to any more details. Nice to know that it's a JDM (Japan Domestic Market) item, I suspect that the Pro Musician I'm buying the bass from bought it during one of his many gigs in Japan. I'm gonna guess that the "S" is either Short or Samick, and the "B" is Bass. Aint got a clue what the "O" could mean tho. Octave, perhaps? LOL, I'm stretching here i guess.
Owch, that bites, hope ye succeed in getting that bow out without any complications. Noticed ye live in NB, Canada. The warping of the neck is from the temperature and humidity extremes that occurs up there?
I'm lucky that the temps and humidity here in Hawaii is fairly consistent with slower and more gradual changes over longer periods of time. Unfortunately, the flip side is that Hawaii's salty humidity plays hell on the electronics and any metal parts. Its not unusual to find guitars to be listed as like new or barely used and still have lots of corrosion on the strings, metal parts and the electronics. Usually, heck almost guaranteed, I expect needing to replace strings, mounting screws and all metal hardwares on any new acquisitions.
Or at the very least do lots of polishing/refinishing on the hardwares.
-Lan
Thank you Ayce, nice to have a bit of verification to my gut feeling guesses. Yeah, saw that page earlier. Its one of those pages where i cussed "S.O.B.!" when I saw that the entry is just a single line of plain text ("SOB") with no linking to any more details. Nice to know that it's a JDM (Japan Domestic Market) item, I suspect that the Pro Musician I'm buying the bass from bought it during one of his many gigs in Japan. I'm gonna guess that the "S" is either Short or Samick, and the "B" is Bass. Aint got a clue what the "O" could mean tho. Octave, perhaps? LOL, I'm stretching here i guess.
Mine turned out to be a project of sorts. The back bow on the neck is worse than I thought, and if I raise the bridge to compensate, the saddles fall off the Allen screws.
On the plus side, I did get the pots cleaned up and the pups adjusted for better response.
Owch, that bites, hope ye succeed in getting that bow out without any complications. Noticed ye live in NB, Canada. The warping of the neck is from the temperature and humidity extremes that occurs up there?
I'm lucky that the temps and humidity here in Hawaii is fairly consistent with slower and more gradual changes over longer periods of time. Unfortunately, the flip side is that Hawaii's salty humidity plays hell on the electronics and any metal parts. Its not unusual to find guitars to be listed as like new or barely used and still have lots of corrosion on the strings, metal parts and the electronics. Usually, heck almost guaranteed, I expect needing to replace strings, mounting screws and all metal hardwares on any new acquisitions.
Or at the very least do lots of polishing/refinishing on the hardwares.-Lan
Looks like a case of ignorance or abuse. The only time I've seen it this bad is when someone left an instrument leaning against a wall strings in, for a long period of time. Yes, there are extremes in temp and humidity here, but I never had a problem with it during my regular gigging years, mainly because my basses were kept in their cases, either flat or on their sides, or on a stand, never leaning against a wall. Salt is a killer here as well, as I'm on the Bay of Fundy, a salt water source. Not quite as salty as the ocean is, though.
The only time I've seen it this bad is when someone left an instrument leaning against a wall strings in, for a long period of time.
---SNIP---
my basses were kept in their cases, either flat or on their sides, or on a stand, never leaning against a wall. Salt is a killer here as well, as I'm on the Bay of Fundy, a salt water source. Not quite as salty as the ocean is, though.
Unfortunately I have seen those before too. Had to pass on a few in the past.
I've gotten 'religious' about keeping my guitars in hard cases too altho due to the increasing numbers of them, I now days store them standing straight up (still in the cases, of course). Found that they do better job of keeping the salt demons away than gig bags (which themselves are better than nothing at all). Ye wouldn't believe how many people here don't do anything to protect them from the elements or store them properly.
I lucked out recently in acquiring an Agile 3010 LP in the old Oceanburst finish that came in a nice hard case that has an attached blanket that covers the guitar while in the case. Was amazed that it's in very good condition considering that the seller lives on a boat located in a marina near Waikiki. Very little corrosion and the finish is still clear and glossy. Which is a good thing cuz I definitely DONT like the new Oceanburst color now available from Rondo. The new one is more greenish, while the old is more teal blue.
Oops, off topic. I'll end it here.
Good luck on yer project!
-Lan
