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The Samick Club

Good news update. I got the back bow out by using a hair dryer hung on a banana holder about 8" away from the neck. I used an old closet rod for a straight support, and padded the ends to protect the nut and frets. I put about 1 1/2 "of folded up cardboard in the middle of the neck where the back bow was worst, and clamped it down as tight as I could get it. After about 15 minutes, I cranked the clamps down until both ends of the neck were on the rod, and let it stay under the dryer on high, for another 45 minutes. I then let it cool for 1 hour and checked the bow. It wasn't quite there, so I let it rest overnight, then put it back under the dryer for another hour, and jacked it up a bit more. After letting it rest still in position for another hour, I checked it, and found it to be almost straight. I put the neck back on and restrung it to tune, and let it sit on it's stand for 24 hours. I then checked the tuning, and re-tuned (All this was with the truss rod loosened, of course). I let it sit another 24, and checked the tuning and neck again. There is now a very slight relief. :) I tightened the truss rod until it just took, then let it sit again. It seems to be holding a tuning now, and the relief is still there. Maybe not as much as I'd like, especially on the B string, but enough to make it reasonably playable.
 
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It's official. I'm now a proud owner of the SOB-PJ-WH bass! It's been named the "S.O.B." due to all the trouble it has given me to find almost no information about it!

Initial assessment: the guitar has a remarkably straight neck (as expected from something that's hung when not used by the previous owner). The finish is a naturally aged white finish that matches well to my 80s vintage Stage CS-327 S-type, also with white finish that has aged to a nice ivory shade.

The pups are cheap generics. The previous owner swapped out his boutique ones prior to the sale, which I don't begrudge him, I'd do the same too! Especially if I was selling for only 120$US. Evidently he had some minor electrical problem(s) as the cavities are all shielded with copper tape and there is a slight buzz in the output that goes away when touching the strings (I suspect a bad bridge ground). Anyway, will try narrow it down after I stop playing around on it!

I'm debating on new pups for this guy. I'm down to two choices:

1) the Active Way: EMG's Frank Bello Signature Red X Series PJ Set.

2) the Passive Way: Lace's Aluma P Bass Pickup combined with their Aluma J Bass Pickup.

The EMGs will set me back by 210$US, whilst the Lace combo will hit my wallet to the tune of 266$US. Only about 50$ difference, which is negligible.

Can anyone who actually bought/used these pups provide feedback on how these sounds? THX!
Alternatively, any suggestions on other pups and how THOSE sounds?

Mahalo Much
-Lan
 
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Good news update. I got the back bow out by using a hair dryer hung on a banana holder about 8" away from the neck. I used an old closet rod for a straight support, and padded the ends to protect the nut and frets. I put about 1 1/2 "of folded up cardboard in the middle of the neck where the back bow was worst, and clamped it down as tight as I could get it. After about 15 minutes, I cranked the clamps down until both ends of the neck were on the rod, and let it stay under the dryer on high, for another 45 minutes. I then let it cool for 1 hour and checked the bow. It wasn't quite there, so I let it rest overnight, then put it back under the dryer for another hour, and jacked it up a bit more. After letting it rest still in position for another hour, I checked it, and found it to be almost straight. I put the neck back on and restrung it to tune, and let it sit on it's stand for 24 hours. I then checked the tuning, and re-tuned (All this was with the truss rod loosened, of course). I let it sit another 24, and checked the tuning and neck again. There is now a very slight relief. :) I tightened the truss rod until it just took, then let it sit again. It seems to be holing a tuning now, and the relief is still there. Maybe not as much as I'd like, especially on the B string, but enough to make it reasonably playable.

Gratz Ayce, glad to hear ye had reasonable success at getting that neck to sorta decent state! Thanks for sharing your techniques on how ye did it. Sounds like something I could try if I next run across a warped neck. :)

-Lan
 
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I got the idea after looking at some vids. One mentioned using a hair dryer, but didn't elaborate on how far away and how long to keep the heat on it, though. My main concern was snapping the neck, which didn't happen. If I run into the same or similar issue, I'll try using a pair of wedges under the neck. That way, if needed, I can easily adjust the height by moving them closer and clamping them.
 
Hey guys!
Not a Samick owner (yet), but just wondering about your takes on the YBT6-629 (6 string artist series. Pictured in the post.)
Considering a purchase, but I have not played a Samick bass before. Well.. Atleast not one branded Samick. Played loads of Squier etc. who are made by the Samick company, no?

Serial #: S5064832

Does anyone know where it's made, and when? I can't see any "Made in ..." on the pictures from the ad. As I gather from googling serials, it is made in june either in 1995 or 2005, correct? But what country? Is it worth the price? Currently set at a little under $350USD.
I'm aware, from the price, that this isn't a high-end instrument like the Sadowsky/F-bass/Alembic, but is it good for an entry-level 6-string? I have mostly played 5-strings and currently owning only a 4-string (Fender P), but never had or played a 6-string?
Any common problems/faults? It's been unused for a while now, but that shouldn't be a problem.
 

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Hey guys!
Not a Samick owner (yet), but just wondering about your takes on the YBT6-629 (6 string artist series. Pictured in the post.)
Considering a purchase, but I have not played a Samick bass before. Well.. Atleast not one branded Samick. Played loads of Squier etc. who are made by the Samick company, no?

Serial #: S5064832

Does anyone know where it's made, and when? I can't see any "Made in ..." on the pictures from the ad. As I gather from googling serials, it is made in june either in 1995 or 2005, correct? But what country? Is it worth the price? Currently set at a little under $350USD.
I'm aware, from the price, that this isn't a high-end instrument like the Sadowsky/F-bass/Alembic, but is it good for an entry-level 6-string? I have mostly played 5-strings and currently owning only a 4-string (Fender P), but never had or played a 6-string?
Any common problems/faults? It's been unused for a while now, but that shouldn't be a problem.
Nice
If I knew where it was I’d buy it right now at that price with a HSC!
Looks like it was hardly ever played!
It’s probably the best way to explore the 6 string bass world to determine if it’s for you or not without spending a lot of $$
Go for it!
 
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NBD - just became the proud owner of a black on black $100 Silvertone P bass and must say it holds up to a good Fender where it really counts, great neck, is very light, sounds strong, quite like a P, plays like a dream, plus it looks damn cool. I see a lot of meh when mentioning this incarnation of Silvertone, and there are cheaper points of issue compared to the nicest vintage P to be sure, but anyone looking for a great alternative can fear not cos these hang in there and deliver for pennies to the dollar. a nice (but non-working) Peavey TNT 115S combo came with the bass but even on it's own for $100 I'm super stoked this Samick turned out to be rather special, and cleaned up better than expected minus some oxidation ick. these deserve their own Club but nobody is gonna kick up a bunch of dust over them but me lol and it all got delivered to my door. not too shabby.
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Pawn Shop special...

Samick Greg Bennett Design Corsair CR4

The sticker said 330 (CDN), so I figured I'd lowball them and offered 200. I had been there about a month before and liked it, but not for the sticker price. The battery ground lead needs resoldering, everything else is fine. Killer setup, which is virtually unheard of at a pawn shop.
The boss was out, and they had a ton of crap guitars, so they wanted to move inventory. They just accepted my offer without even countering! IMO, the thing plays plays like a Fender Pro... So glad I went back to check it out and they took my lowball!
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The colour has some green to the blue, that doesn't show up in the photos. Pickguard is a pale mint green.
 
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I got an Abilene P bass that is made by Samick.
It cost me $30.
Nice, I got my Samick LBM-10 several years ago (early 2000s) and it looks nearly identical to yours. I enjoy mine immensely. I had a good set-up done when I bought it, slapped some Pyramid flatwound strings on it, and it sounds and plays great. Never have had a problem with the electronics.

May I be a Samick member?
 
NBD here, picked up a Samick Thunderbolt. Seems to be a somewhat obscure model, with not a lot of info to be googled. Does anyone own one of these?

This bass is a bit worn, dirty, and dusty. I’m no luthier but I’ll clean it up as best I can, restring it, and adjust the truss rod to hopefully lower the action. Might eventually replace the worn gold hardware to make it look a little cleaner.

I found a catalog photo online, but this one has a different headstock and logo.

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NBD here, picked up a Samick Thunderbolt.
Might eventually replace the worn gold hardware to make it look a little cleaner.
I found a catalog photo online, but this one has a different headstock and logo.
Nice find! I've never heard of this model. If you replace the gold hardware, it seems to me like chrome would look better on it. I think the headstock on yours looks better than the one in the catalog.
 
The last 2 were very similar to the fretted 5er I had back in the late 80's, early 90's before I went fretless. Mine had Saturn's as fret markers. Same head stock and layout (P/J). Mine had Chrome hardware as well, and the colour would look different depending on the light. Sometimes it looked Blue, others it looked Purple. :)
 
Nice find! I've never heard of this model. If you replace the gold hardware, it seems to me like chrome would look better on it. I think the headstock on yours looks better than the one in the catalog.
Hey thanks. I’m actually considering black hardware. A lot of folks don’t care for gold hardware but it has always appealed to me, especially on white instruments. So I’m undecided at the moment. I plan on keeping this bass, so it will be fun cleaning it up, upgrading the parts, and making it my own. Also considering gutting the active electronics and replacing the pickups. Keeping all original parts together of course, so it can be returned to stock if desired.
 
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Well, I gutted the Thunderbolt. Preamp, pickups, and all. I left the neck bolted to the body but everything else is off.

Next step is polishing the body. I have some Eterna Shine 2-step polish & scratch remover that I’ve been wanting to try.

I’ll order new hardware top to bottom. I’m thinking black. I just want the bridge to be a direct replacement. I’m no luthier so I don’t want to deal with trying to line up a different bridge, drill new holes, etc.

Last will be pickups. Since I am happy with my go-to active bass (Ibanez BTB670), I’m thinking of going with passive pickups. My main concern is the new pickups fitting the body routes/holes. I’m no expert on this stuff, hence my caution.
 
Well, I gutted the Thunderbolt. Preamp, pickups, and all. I left the neck bolted to the body but everything else is off.

Next step is polishing the body. I have some Eterna Shine 2-step polish & scratch remover that I’ve been wanting to try.

I’ll order new hardware top to bottom. I’m thinking black. I just want the bridge to be a direct replacement. I’m no luthier so I don’t want to deal with trying to line up a different bridge, drill new holes, etc.

Last will be pickups. Since I am happy with my go-to active bass (Ibanez BTB670), I’m thinking of going with passive pickups. My main concern is the new pickups fitting the body routes/holes. I’m no expert on this stuff, hence my caution.
Not to change your mind, but have you considered the 'black chrome' hardware? I think it would look sweet, but it's not my bass.
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