Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,042
- 45,890
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
I was under the impression that you could only bi-amp GK heads with GK cabs?
Nope, and especially not so with the old 800RB.
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I was under the impression that you could only bi-amp GK heads with GK cabs?
Nope, and especially not so with the old 800RB.
Just curious what makes bi-amping any different with the 800RB as opposed to the 700RBii
Would like to eventually be able to do this with my head.
Since y'all were mentioning the B115-M and B215-M, I thought this might be appropriate to add:
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I was under the impression that you could only bi-amp GK heads with GK cabs?
Ahhh this makes sense. Thank you both for the replies!
Holy Moly!!!I've used tons of EV drivers over the years and most of the time I've played them with a minimum of double their ratings without a problem. I still have two EV cabinets that I play with 2,600 watts - well in excess of of their rating. I always high-pass the boxes and I use limiters so that I don't clip the amp. The design of those drivers is pretty old, but they were well made and honestly rated. They still sound good.

That’s true of modern “horn crossover” GKs.I was under the impression that you could only bi-amp GK heads with GK cabs?
That’s true of modern “horn crossover” GKs.
I use an 800RB. 300watts below 250hz into TL606 and 100watts above 250hz into EV 12. It’s like having a guitar amp handling the mids/highs up top and the TL606 handling the omph below. Killer and super efficient/loud rig. Too loud, really!
Which reinforces my point that the EVM drivers are not as robust as some think they are for bass guitar applications, especially when driven beyond their "RMS" (or continuous average power) rating. There simply isn't enough mechanical robustness for this application.Found a Mesa Boogie Diesel 215 for sale locally, but the guy is asking too much for the cab IMO. Speakers have already been re-coned.
Which reinforces my point that the EVM drivers are not as robust as some think they are for bass guitar applications, especially when driven beyond their "RMS" (or continuous average power) rating. There simply isn't enough mechanical robustness for this application.
That said, with lower powered amps there is a unique openness to the mid voicing that is what drove some of us designers to those drivers in the first place. When bass amps were 200 watts into 8 ohms and 400 watts into 4 ohms, there wasn't much of a problem. That all changed with bigger amplifiers that even the modifications of the ProLine version couldn't fully overcome. In real world terms, they increased the rated power (in my experience) from roughly 150-200 watts RMS to 200-300 watts RMS depending on the effectiveness of any highpass filtering that the amp might have. With a Subway, I would suggest that 300 watts would be ok, but with a Carbine maybe 2002225 watts would be more appropriate for a long service life.
I like to see those who take the effort to read and learn about this stuff actually be able to be at an advantage when dealing with it. Knowledge really is power, I'm in admittedly unique position in that I have been on this industry for a long enough time to have actually designed with this technology and know first hand the benefits as well as the limitations that different parts or approaches might bring.Funny, @agedhorse , when I asked the owner if they were ever re-coned and he said yes, I actually thought of you![]()
This is a very similar solution. Good work!Ahh man thats awesome!
I've been running something similar lately, without the bi-amping.
Right now I have my 700RB going into my 606 cab and I'm running a split from my pedalboard into my small Kustom 112 combo (35 watts?). Sounds awesome.
Found a Mesa Boogie Diesel 215 for sale locally, but the guy is asking too much for the cab IMO. Speakers have already been re-coned.
This is a very similar solution. Good work!