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Zoom Owners' Club!

That B1 Four looks pretty cool, but looking at the specs I see that its output power is +2 dBm like the black plastic B1n family, not the +5 dBm of my old B-2 or the current MS60B. So for those of us wanting to drive old Peavey rack power amps directly using the Zoom as a stand-alone preamp--now that's a club with a lot of members--looks like these new units would not be an ideal backup or replacement.

With the +5 dBm output, my B2 can make the old Peavey power amp hit the DDT pretty hard with a passive P-bass, using compression, the Marshall Superbass model at 20% gain and full bright, no straight signal blended in, and graphic EQ settings that involve some mid boost and gentle low and high cuts (so not too far from unity gain at the EQ stage). But I have the compressor set with pretty high output to hit the amp model's "input" pretty hard, and the noise reduction stage's output is set high, and the overall control output is set high. So overall there's a fair amount of signal boost going on, and it's just enough for a power amp that wants to see a 1 volt input signal.

With +2 dBm it'd probably be useable, in a pinch, if I cranked the bejesus out of it, but for about the same price I could get an MS60B instead. Since I don't need a bunch of simultaneous effects and I don't do patch changes, I think the MS configuration would suit me better. For me the appeal in a unit like this is the fact that it combines a serviceable preamp emulation, compressor, EQ, noise reduction and a tuner in one small box that doesn't cost too much.

Hope that didn't come off as a rip on the new unit, or too negative. Just working it out in my head as I type, I guess.
 
That B1 Four looks pretty cool, but looking at the specs I see that its output power is +2 dBm like the black plastic B1n family, not the +5 dBm of my old B-2 or the current MS60B. So for those of us wanting to drive old Peavey rack power amps directly using the Zoom as a stand-alone preamp--now that's a club with a lot of members--looks like these new units would not be an ideal backup or replacement.

With the +5 dBm output, my B2 can make the old Peavey power amp hit the DDT pretty hard with a passive P-bass, using compression, the Marshall Superbass model at 20% gain and full bright, no straight signal blended in, and graphic EQ settings that involve some mid boost and gentle low and high cuts (so not too far from unity gain at the EQ stage). But I have the compressor set with pretty high output to hit the amp model's "input" pretty hard, and the noise reduction stage's output is set high, and the overall control output is set high. So overall there's a fair amount of signal boost going on, and it's just enough for a power amp that wants to see a 1 volt input signal.

With +2 dBm it'd probably be useable, in a pinch, if I cranked the bejesus out of it, but for about the same price I could get an MS60B instead. Since I don't need a bunch of simultaneous effects and I don't do patch changes, I think the MS configuration would suit me better. For me the appeal in a unit like this is the fact that it combines a serviceable preamp emulation, compressor, EQ, noise reduction and a tuner in one small box that doesn't cost too much.

Hope that didn't come off as a rip on the new unit, or too negative. Just working it out in my head as I type, I guess.
It is a trade off the functionality and output of the B2 or the updated and improved sounds of the newer units. For myself I also see standing pat with my B2 for now as they are tweaked to my needs.
 
F6AF6469-A633-4432-B7E9-AC739548412A.jpeg
Love my GK MB112 Combo but need a little bit more oomph for gigs.
The GK powered cabs are the same price as the amps here in the UK so it made sense to buy another amp rather than a cab.
Running both off my Zoom B3. Sounds awesome and more than enough volume now too!
 
I had a question for people who use B1Xon (or any processor for this matter) in pedal board and for headphone practice.
I realized that if I fully commit my Zoom to board it would be pretty hard to use it for practice. I have LS-2 at the end to mix clear and effect, and of cource it is not strong enough to drive my headphones loud. Some sound out of it is present, but not practically usable.
So I would have to cram in 3.5 AUX cable, remove OUT jack and place 6.3->3.5 adapter and headphones cord instead, and do it in reverse order once I am done. Not a pleasant experience I imagine, plus increased wear on cables.
So options: don't put Zoom to board (I need light OD 99% of cases) and just put OD pedal; put Zoom in place and position so back of it is freely awailable and live with replugs; take Zoom out and put it back in every time.
 
I had a question for people who use B1Xon (or any processor for this matter) in pedal board and for headphone practice.
I realized that if I fully commit my Zoom to board it would be pretty hard to use it for practice. I have LS-2 at the end to mix clear and effect, and of cource it is not strong enough to drive my headphones loud. Some sound out of it is present, but not practically usable.
So I would have to cram in 3.5 AUX cable, remove OUT jack and place 6.3->3.5 adapter and headphones cord instead, and do it in reverse order once I am done. Not a pleasant experience I imagine, plus increased wear on cables.
So options: don't put Zoom to board (I need light OD 99% of cases) and just put OD pedal; put Zoom in place and position so back of it is freely awailable and live with replugs; take Zoom out and put it back in every time.

Keeping the Zoom off the board and just using it for a practice tool, and installing an overdrive pedal in its place, sounds like the best solution to me. I am also put off by having to plug and un-plug a bunch of cables when what I really want to do is play some music.
 
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I had a question for people who use B1Xon (or any processor for this matter) in pedal board and for headphone practice.
I realized that if I fully commit my Zoom to board it would be pretty hard to use it for practice. I have LS-2 at the end to mix clear and effect, and of cource it is not strong enough to drive my headphones loud. Some sound out of it is present, but not practically usable.
So I would have to cram in 3.5 AUX cable, remove OUT jack and place 6.3->3.5 adapter and headphones cord instead, and do it in reverse order once I am done. Not a pleasant experience I imagine, plus increased wear on cables.
So options: don't put Zoom to board (I need light OD 99% of cases) and just put OD pedal; put Zoom in place and position so back of it is freely awailable and live with replugs; take Zoom out and put it back in every time.
If you are only using the Z-B1xon for light od then I would get an od pedal to use in its place to save space, perhaps make room for another effect.

Otoh you might consider buying a second B1xon used for practice of one of the new models in the coming months as they are quite affordable and use the spare for practice.
 
If you are only using the Z-B1xon for light od then I would get an od pedal to use in its place to save space, perhaps make room for another effect.
I plan to make space for Zoom but maybe not install it, and put OD. So I will have place for one or two more pedals, and will be able to put Zoom in if absolutely necessary.
Otoh you might consider buying a second B1xon used for practice of one of the new models in the coming months as they are quite affordable and use the spare for practice.
I would rather buy new model, if I decide to shop for 2nd one. And use current for practice =)
 
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Mostly I'm just having trouble putting what I want where I want it. I did download the GuitarLab from Zoom, but so far I'm not having much luck using it.

That's a nice easy one. Assuming you have everything you want in the patch, and that patch is active...

1. Press 'Menu'
2. Turn the main knob to highlight 'Chain', then press the knob.
3. Turn the knob until the hand icon is over the effect you want to move.
4. Press the knob - the hand icon shows a gripped hand
5. Turn the knob until the unit is in the desired position in the chain. Note effects run left to right - leftmost is first in the chain.
6. Press the knob to drop into position. The hand icon shows an open hand.
7. Repeat for others.
8. Press 'Menu' to quit.

Just one more thing, if 'Autosave' is 'Off' you will be prompted to save if you go to another patch... Press the main knob to save. Press 'Menu' > 'Setup' to turn Autosave on or off as necessary..
 
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