Well, I think you should try to play one first at the rehearsal. If it's comfortable to you and you like the sound, why not?
If you can affod it, do it. There's no evil in having a very good bass while beinga beginner. After all, you're playing for your own pleasure first.
AFAIK it may depend on the pickups/preamp design. You should also take the way your bass was built (mahogany usually tends to compress the sound a bit as opposed to ash or alder, a bass with lots of glue loints will generally have less dynamics than a bolt-on one-piece necked bass with 1-3 piece...
JD played a Rick until he had problems during recordings in 1971 (you can hear Rick only on The Noght Comes Down on their first album), then he bought two pre-CBS sunburst Precisions as his main basses, both alder-maple/rosewood. (let's call them 1 and 2)
He used 1 as his main both live and...
I think it's the wide aperture that made them dark.
And being a P-bass guy I like the tone a lot
In fact, it's one of the best single-coils set to my taste.
I imagine they sound even better on mahogany body
I think the type of finish doesn't impact the sound on the plywood as opposed to tonewood, as long as the finish layer isn't too thick. Plywood is processed too much and contains too much glue.
I always wondered how a violet metallic/yellow or seafoam green metallic/yellow sunburst would look...
After playing EB flats and listening to TI/Chromes A/B soundclip I can say that EB's are almost as bright as Chromes (but with strings getting progressively duller from 1 to 4 - not a big issue though)
BTW a great idea, JustDavid. I wanted to start a thread like this,but you were first)
Warning: You should consider that some basses have small diameter tuners, some have larger ones. Some are 4 in line, some are 2+2 kind.
And my experience of using the same set on those different types of basses may reduce string lifetome noticeably.
If it's the room'n'mic issue you don't have to worry. Just move the cab further away from the wall (make sure it's not parallel to the wall, and don't put it in the corner).
If the problem is with the bass, new strings won't help. I had a severe dead spot on the 3rd fret of the 4th string. I...
it's any kind of flats with maybe a bit of highs rolled off.
I'd recommend you to start from brighter flats like Chromes, EB flats or Rotosound.
Keep in mind that it may take some time for them to acquire THAT roundness.
Keep your amp EQ as flat as possible (maybe with some highs roll off...
And I should say that LED's are much reliable.
When they were changing incandescent traffic lights for LED's I remember having heard that LED lifetime is about 30 years.
I'd rather say it depends on the bass more than on the strings. I tuned 45-100 flats in EADG, DGCF, CGDA (fifth) and it was OK. If you use heavy gauge high tension flats you may even sound better after downtuning.
8 years ago I was thirteen, I was very shy, I didn't wear glasses, I had a short haircut, me and my parents had just moved to a new apartment, I hadn't started balding.
I didn't think I would play music.
You can say you've switched to a lighter set without actually switching)). I bet he'll hear the difference lol.
Then again, maybe try to set your EQ a bit flatter (just a tad) - it will rather enhance your sound than destroy it and it won't change dramatically
1) They won't
2) Does playing at the neck bother you? When I switched to flats I also started playing at the neck, but I got used to it pretty soon.
3) You may consider a good setup for your bass. Flats allow lower action - after the setup it will be easier for your fretting hand and your...
You know, when I said poor fretwork I meant poor fretwork :-)
I've been playing a cheap borrowed bass lately. It has rounds, an action about 1/4" and trere's still some buzz. I don't think my technique deteriorated so much since mid-autumn when i switched to flats :-)
As for measuring - I just converted millimetres into inches (I'm from Europe)
As for Plek - In my experience one can have unpleasant sound while playing rounds even with high action as rounds tend not to forgive poor fretwork (and especially problems with nut slots).
As for number - I take #13
I had setups varying from 1/12" to around 3/16" and played successfully, but 1/8 seems to be the most comfy action (since I don't slap and like to dig in)
I also prefer stiff strings
Do I qualify?
I think dimarzio would be good in neck position.
Not sure about bridge position, but I'd rather support a double Dimarzio.
There is a video with Lace Aluma P in the neck and QP in the bridge - quite nice, worth checking