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Dingwall Owners Club

Thanks for your reply. I didn't use much clue and watched out that there isn't any in the thread itself. Should be fine but gonna let the clue set for a few hours now.
What type of glue did you use? If you used wood glue, it probably won't work. Hopefully you used cyanoacrylate or "super glue" or something really strong like that which will bond to both metal and wood?

If your repair fails, you don't need to go to a larger insert. Instead, you can drill a bigger hole (for example maybe 0.25" or 0.375" or around 6mm to 8mm) using a Forstner bit (this makes a flat-bottomed hole, so that you won't poke through the back of the instrument), and then glue in a piece of oak dowel that is exactly the same diameter as your new hole. (Make sure the hole is exactly the same size as the dowel diameter, then use a sharp knife or razor blade to score a bunch of lines around the dowel to give the glue somewhere to go.) Then mount the original threaded insert into the oak dowel, and it will be very solid. This is the same technique I use to repair door hinges and baseboard doorstop holes in my house.

Hopefully @Sheldon D. can review and approve or disapprove of this approach.
 
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What type of glue did you use? If you used wood glue, it probably won't work. Hopefully you used cyanoacrylate or "super glue" or something really strong like that which will bond to both metal and wood?

If your repair fails, you don't need to go to a larger insert. Instead, you can drill a bigger hole using a Forstner bit (this makes a flat-bottomed hole, so that you won't poke through the back of the instrument), and then glue in a piece of oak dowel that is exactly the same diameter as your new hole. Then mount the original threaded insert into the oak dowel, and it will be very solid. This is the same technique I use to repair door hinges and baseboard doorstop holes in my house.

Hopefully @Sheldon D. can review and approve or disapprove of this approach.

thanks for your reply as well. I used some repairclue (strong and also for metal/wood). I let it cure over night to make sure it is solid and then screw down the pickup tomorrow.
If it doesn't work I will probably do what you said. We'll see
 
Quick question from a guy thinking about a Combustion. How does it do with a rear pup Jaco burp/bark sound? Good enough, or just plain wrong bass? Thanks.

With my limited jazz bass experience I’d say it was pretty close. This video will give you a pretty good idea bridge pickup soloed at 9:30ish.

I know it’s a different model but the pickups are the same as is the scale length.
 
Quick question from a guy thinking about a Combustion. How does it do with a rear pup Jaco burp/bark sound? Good enough, or just plain wrong bass? Thanks.

Yep. It'll do it. I took it a step further on my fanned-fretless Combustion by moving the neck pickup into the "Z2" positioning so I can do the bridge solo or a slightly beefier tone that still has that same vibe and cut.

11168C53-7C8E-4E9E-9D2D-C3DB70C7C5B1.jpeg
 
I am excited to report that Sheldon will be joining us at the Link Removed! If you want to stop by, chat with Sheldon, check out his basses, and visist with all of the other killer clinicians/vendors/performers, you can register for the event here.

Please note, Bass Gear Magazine is a co-sponsor of this event, but all proceeds of the Midwest Rhythm Summit go to the benefit of the Terra State College Foundation. Here is a link to the event thread here on TalkBass.
 
Which one of the two, though :laugh:
As DT stated. Different desired effects. Both are amazing.
The problem I have giving comparisons though from my experience is that
My alder/we get SJ also has FD3 and a glockenklang vs
The Z3 I had had FDVs and DGTC.

I do believe those pickups have quite the impact.
I will say though that, as DT mentioned, the Z3 has definitely more of a scooped audible impression.
Both are hard hitting though.

Choices.
 
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