Dingwall Owners Club

[Element Zero]

I should add that I have (basic rough and ready) sound clips of each of the following in case anyone is interested in the future:

NG3 FD3n: passive, EQ flat, all four positions on the pick-up selector

NG3 FD3n: DG tone capsule, EQ flat, all four positions on the pick-up selector

NG3 FDV: passive, EQ flat, all four positions on the pick-up selector

NG3 FDV: DG tone capsule, EQ flat, all four positions on the pick-up selector

NG3 FDV: passive, EQ flat, all six positions on the pick-up selector

NG3 FDV: Anima, EQ flat, all six positions on the pick-up selector

I’d love to hear these

 

[Element Zero]

Dogals are looser than TI jazz rounds on 34” indeed, but closer to TI Jazz flats on 37” .
And yeah if you like zing and stout strings - skip Dogals for sure.
Payson rounds are too daddario to my taste (don’t like), but their flats are cool. Remind me of DR legend flats.

Idk why Dingwall nickels felt rough to you, for me they are on smoother side of rounds.

Also check dunlop nickels, they are fairly inexpensive, on the softer side (but not TI jazz loose) and I’d say they are smoother than usual on fingers, but that’s just my impression. Good strings, not overly bright like name suggests, just regular nps bright.

That’s some good insight on the Dogals. I will not go down the $$$ string path again blindly. Disappointment costs too much money. I’m wondering if for some reason the stock string on my NG were stainless steel instead of nickel. Mostly it was the B and E strings that gave me the issue. Sure sounded good though. The PW do feel smoother but the upper end clarity/response is quite different and subdued.

Is it too much to ask to have a manufacturer make TI Jazz Rounds with hex core and Elixir coating treatment? lol

 

[Thumper]

That’s some good insight on the Dogals. I will not go down the $$$ string path again blindly. Disappointment costs too much money. I’m wondering if for some reason the stock string on my NG were stainless steel instead of nickel. Mostly it was the B and E strings that gave me the issue. Sure sounded good though. The PW do feel smoother but the upper end clarity/response is quite different and subdued.

Is it too much to ask to have a manufacturer make TI Jazz Rounds with hex core and Elixir coating treatment? lol

Calll Jason at Fretnation. I'm pretty sure DR has something you can use.

 

[Element Zero]

Bass playthrough for my bands latest single Opiate.

Combustion, into a SansAmp GED-2112, into a Flamma FS07 Stereo Cab Sim pedal, straight into my interface.

Sick!

 

[Element Zero]

Calll Jason at Fretnation. I'm pretty sure DR has something you can use.

They have the dragon skin multiscale strings. Tried a set of the dragon skins on a fretless I had last year. Hated them. They were, “squeaky”? Don’t know how to describe it. LOVE the Elixir coating though.

 

[AB Nate]

Dogals are looser than TI jazz rounds on 34” indeed, but closer to TI Jazz flats on 37” .
And yeah if you like zing and stout strings - skip Dogals for sure.
Payson rounds are too daddario to my taste (don’t like), but their flats are cool. Remind me of DR legend flats.

Idk why Dingwall nickels felt rough to you, for me they are on smoother side of rounds.

Also check dunlop nickels, they are fairly inexpensive, on the softer side (but not TI jazz loose) and I’d say they are smoother than usual on fingers, but that’s just my impression. Good strings, not overly bright like name suggests, just regular nps bright.

Funny thing is I’d totally disagree.

I dislike D’addario strings generally but love the paysons.

On the other side I do agree the Dingwall strings are quite smooth.

I’ve been playing stainless for long enough that sandpaper feels smooth though.

 

[aff]

Funny thing is I’d totally disagree.

I dislike D’addario strings generally but love the paysons.

On the other side I do agree the Dingwall strings are quite smooth.

I’ve been playing stainless for long enough that sandpaper feels smooth though.

Yeah it’s all personal. Paysons are not bad strings by any means, they’re good. Just very standard normal set, optimized for multiscale, with balanced feel and sound. But exactly this makes them boring for me. I like strings with a character. Matching string character or particular feature with a particular bass/pickup is fun.

I’ve heard too many basses that sound completely generic and uninspired with generic strings get completely transformed finding better matching set of strings.

Yeah, much of it can be just EQed (except feel/finger response), but where’s fun in that?

 

[AB Nate]

Does anyone have any experience putting a filter preamp in their Dingwall à la Underhill or Lusithand? I don’t get a whole lot of use out of the Glock on mine (I prefer EQ-ing through pedals) and I’m interested if this has been worthwhile for others.

Not filter pre

But still a cool one off from Dingwall using these.

REDEEMER BUFFER | Creation Audio Labs

Transparent guitar buffer makes your guitar bullet-proof to tone loss & effect pedal loading. Has dead-battery-mode to pass a useful signal if the battery dies.

www.creationaudiolabs.com

Sounds great and not too mention how tasty this bass is.

 

[Element Zero]

Funny thing is I’d totally disagree.

I dislike D’addario strings generally but love the paysons.

On the other side I do agree the Dingwall strings are quite smooth.

I’ve been playing stainless for long enough that sandpaper feels smooth though.

Despite playing for 30 years now and having no problems playing 30 songs straight through with no resting, I never really developed calluses. In my earlier years I played WAY too hard and tore up my index and middles fingers on both hands having blisters after a gig. Now many many years later that’s no longer an issue but I’m much more in tune with physical textures and economy of motion… at least I tend to get fixated on them anyway lol. It’s been quite a few years since I’ve tried DR Lo-Riders or D’Addario Pro Steels which were my go-to sets for a long time. Ken Smith stainless on my Fodera Yin Yang were fantastic though and took too long to discover.

Excited to try the Payson set when they come in.

 

[AB Nate]

Yeah it’s all personal. Paysons are not bad strings by any means, they’re good. Just very standard normal set, optimized for multiscale, with balanced feel and sound. But exactly this makes them boring for me. I like strings with a character. Matching string character or particular feature with a particular bass/pickup is fun.

I’ve heard too many basses that sound completely generic and uninspired with generic strings get completely transformed finding better matching set of strings.

Yeah, much of it can be just EQed (except feel/finger response), but where’s fun in that?

Ha. And that’s D’addarios to me. Boring AF.

Opinions hey… Glad we all have our own and they aren’t the same.

I definitely get magic out of the Paysons on my Dingwall’s. Feel and tone.

I’ve got a couple long scales that prefer the nickels like my ABZ and the old voodoo 6
And my Z 6ers dress so nicely in the SS strings.

Black daggers suite the fretless Z perfectly.


I would also counter with Payson makes these strings for the discerning player vs the masses. They are far from a mass produced “hey, they are tough to break” type of string. lol.

 

[Element Zero]

Yeah it’s all personal. Paysons are not bad strings by any means, they’re good. Just very standard normal set, optimized for multiscale, with balanced feel and sound. But exactly this makes them boring for me. I like strings with a character. Matching string character or particular feature with a particular bass/pickup is fun.

I’ve heard too many basses that sound completely generic and uninspired with generic strings get completely transformed finding better matching set of strings.

Yeah, much of it can be just EQed (except feel/finger response), but where’s fun in that?

I fully understand. Sometimes basses react better with different strings. And sometimes worse.

 

[DeltaPhoenix]

Despite playing for 30 years now and having no problems playing 30 songs straight through with no resting, I never really developed calluses. In my earlier years I played WAY too hard and tore up my index and middles fingers on both hands having blisters after a gig. Now many many years later that’s no longer an issue but I’m much more in tune with physical textures and economy of motion… at least I tend to get fixated on them anyway lol. It’s been quite a few years since I’ve tried DR Lo-Riders or D’Addario Pro Steels which were my go-to sets for a long time. Ken Smith stainless on my Fodera Yin Yang were fantastic though and took too long to discover.

Excited to try the Payson set when they come in.

Oofff,
I still wish I would have bought that Bass one of the 2 times it sold relatively recently.

 

[AB Nate]

Oofff,
I still wish I would have bought that Bass one of the 2 times it sold relatively recently.

You mean the walnut one?

 

[DeltaPhoenix]

Yes

 

[AB Nate]

Yes

Ugh. I know.

It originally came up for sale not far from me….. I almost… I had a responsible moment

BUT I did put John onto it and he was able to work something out. I hoped it would buy me some time to attain it later. Lol. I stayed the course though during that time and eventually he sold it to Luffy. I lost track of it from there.

It’s like a modern antique Dingwall.

 

[DeltaPhoenix]

We were moving/buying a house so it was just not a great time for me to be a little irresponsible

 

[Element Zero]

Argh, I found an issue with the video so I had to re-upload it. Missed the TB edit window so here it is again with the fix.

Great! But help with the first words that popped into my head…

“Just hit the east of the LBC ona mission tryna find Mista Warren G”

 

[Element Zero]

Dingwall NG3 Mod - Reversable

So I have been buying Dingwalls since around 2014. Back then the vast majority were two pickup models with a standard bridge and neck pickup. I fell in love with the sound of neck/bridge in series. That to me was the Dingwall sound. I know most people think of it as the bridge/middle but that came later and although awesome is not my favourite setting. My next several Dingwalls all were two pick ups. An ABZ5, a couple AB1s, a Z2 etc. I was somewhat disappointed when the 3 pickup models came out and they did not have a neck/bridge series option. I always missed it. I ended up buying a few NG2's throughout the years and moved the middle pickup to the neck position so I could get the neck/bridge series option. I had to buy a 2 pickup combustion pickguard to make this work.

I love the bridge and middle combo in series or in parallel but my favourite tone is bridge/neck series as mentioned.

Anyhooo.. I currently have a NG3 and a Droc Standard. I was sitting around last night looking at the 6 position switches online and considering them (like I have done every few months for the last 5 years) and it suddenly came to me that I could just swap the neck and middle position around and problem solved. I don't mean unsolder anything, just take the pickguard off and move the middle pickup up and the bridge pickup down. I realize someone else has probably done this in the past but it hadn't occurred to me until yesterday. The middle pickup only had a bit of exposed wire in the pickup cavity but there was plenty of extra wire in the control cavity so I was able to loosen the tie and add another inch or so in the pickup cavity in order to allow me to move the middle pickup into the neck position.

So I did it and the results are great. I now have the bridge/neck in series wiring that I love. I am not a jazz guy so bridge/neck in parallel doesn't do it for me.

The pickups in this position changes what the 4 position switch controls but it's completely reversable and only took 15 minutes to do. The switch now works like this.
1st position (nearest bridge) - bridge solo, 2nd position - bridge and neck in series, 3rd position - bridge/middle in parallel, 4th position - middle pickup solo'd. I have a Droc now and have had several since they came out and I personally love the middle solo option. I prefer it to neck solo.

The individual pickups on a NG3 are wired (from top to bottom) in series/parallel/series. So the middle pickup is now in series which is great for when it is solo'd. Similar to the Droc switch. The bridge and the middle are both series so when they are used together you get the same wiring that you would on a NG2 when using the 2nd setting with bridge/middle in parallel. The neck pickup is now the lone pickup in parallel but it is never solod and only used combination with the bridge in series. Sounds amazing.

Anyways I thought I would share because it never occurred to me to do this and I am sure there are other people that miss having the option to have the bridge and neck pickups in series option.

Ooh I am absolutely trying this Tuesday night

Edit… who am I kidding. Just did it lol

Edit #2… ok so bridge and neck in series is cool, but not my thing. Back to stock I go. I would like to say though how dope it is to have brass (or metal) pickup screw inserts. Fantastic.

So I tried the other switch this morning. Bridge and middle. Gave me the neck single, middle single (which I liked a lot) neck middle (which I didn’t like) and middle bridge (which sounded different after the swap compared to the regular position middle bridge). Moved everything back to original. The OG Neck Bridge in parallel and OG Middle Bridge in series are just really gettin my goat.

Also switched back to the original stock Dingwall strings. MUCH happier sound wise and tension wise compared to the Pressure Wounds.

 

[sourcehill]

I received my SP1 two days ago and opened it last night. The bass is gorgeous, but I’m noticing something odd with the volume knob. Instead of a smooth, gradual 1–10 volume sweep like I’ve experienced with every other instrument I’ve owned, this volume knob behaves differently and think I may have a problem.

At full volume (10), I set my peak in Logic at −8 dB. At 0, it registers no sound, which is expected. However, during the first 60% of the knob’s rotation, the volume stays extremely low, hovering between −45 dB and −40 dB. From roughly 60–80% of the turn, it increases to around −35 dB to −30 dB. In the final 20% of the turn, the volume spikes sharply to between −12 dB and −8 dB.

This doesn’t seem normal for a volume pot. Let me know what you think.

In other words: at 0 it’s silent, which is normal. From 1–6, the volume remains very low and barely changes as the knob is turned. From 6–8, it gets slightly louder, and then from 8–10 the volume jumps dramatically.

 

[Perrygoround]

Hi to all,
I just pulled the trigger on a D-roc that was announced on a reputable online shop in Europe at a reasonable price (plus I took advantage of a 10% Xmass discount coupon, so the price was even more reasonable).
I am happy and excited to received it in the next few days. I have a question for you knowledgable folks. This particular unit hast the 4 individual bridge saddles, instead of the new "minimalistic" bridge I see on newer D-rocs. Hence, I am assuming it was discounted for being an older unit that was not sold before the shop got re-stocked with the newer ones.
My question is: when did Dingwall introduced the new minimalistic bridges on the 4 string Drocs?
Just to estimate for how long has the one I am buying stood in the wherehouse.
Thanks in advance!