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Dunlop Strings - one word "Wow"

Through the body on my 34" G&L they taper just after the nut, so they probably will not be long enough for 35". :hmm:

This is correct. I just put a set on my 35" scale Peavey Cirrus last night, strung through the bridge (can't string through the body on a Cirrus). The taper barely clears the nut, so I can't imagine that they'd be long enough to string through the body on a 35" scale instrument.
 
Re: quality and durability...

I had a set on my SR5 that lasted two gigs, took a plane ride home and upon arriving the G string was completely dead. I mean it had that fresh metal feel upon touching it and was still "new" but was actually dead from the inside which is something I had never encountered before. The other strings were fresh still and had zing. It's almost as though the G string completely just lost it's luster and sustain.

I'm thinking I got what I paid for but maybe I should just contact Dunlop to get a replacement because while I really want to stick with this brand, this type of thing will kill me on the road.

They totally took care of me. 2 sets and a t-shirt were sent as a replacement, and I was able to exchange some quality e-mails with Les, the in-charge of their string operation.

GREAT strings and the t-shirt is great, says Heavy Core!!!

That's A+ customer service and really taking care. I am 100% converted to Dunlop strings now. Especially because they are also my favorite string, sound amazing the day of the gig and I pretty much restring every gig.
 
Well my first set has finally hit that wall of "no matter how much I crank the treble it's not there" so its time for a new set. good thing I bought 4 sets when they were on sale! So, thats about 4 months of medium duty usage (my band are a bunch of old babies, they never want to jam more than 2 hours twice a week).
So I guess I will get 16-18 months out of these. not too bad. But I generally was getting 6 months out of DR's.
 
I bought a 5-string set in nickel after hearing all the hype about them. Unfortunately I got a dead A-string out of the package.

I contacted Dunlop asking for a replacement. Never got an answer to my email but one week or so later I received a replacement set.

At first try they seemed a bit low tension for my taste but we'll see for real when I put the set back. Not knowing if I'd get a replacement string (or set) from such a big company, in the mean time I put a Sadowsky SS set I had on hand.
 
My current string of choice are the DR DDTs. Incredible fundamental and evenness all over the neck. But I miss some of the low-treble bite from the hi-beams. I was thinking about trying the fat-beams next.

Anybody compare Dunlops (5-strings) to DR DDTs? The price seems nice. I might try the nickels.
 
I just put a set of the Dunlop Nickels on my G&L 2500 Tribute and the A string just fit using the through body.
You can definentaly see the sloppy winding in the .125 B string I personaly cant wait to get a set of DR Low Riders back on this bass,these Dunlops feel cheap and have way to little tension for my taste.
 
I just put a set of SS on an SX PJ and a set of Nickles on my Carvin LB75.

The stainless sound fine, though a little clanky (I meant to order the nickels, but hit the wrong button, totally my fault).

The nickles feel somewhat rough, but they do sound good. I am having an issue with the .125 B string though. When I slap or pick it hard, there is a chorus-like shimmer in the high end. not a huge deal, but its there.

previously I had DR nickel low riders on the SX and Carvin Nickles on the LB75 (was trying something new, usually string DR Fatbeams in med/heavy)
 
This is correct. I just put a set on my 35" scale Peavey Cirrus last night, strung through the bridge (can't string through the body on a Cirrus). The taper barely clears the nut, so I can't imagine that they'd be long enough to string through the body on a 35" scale instrument.

They fit on my 35" Peavey Millennium strung through body just fine.
 
My current string of choice are the DR DDTs. Incredible fundamental and evenness all over the neck. But I miss some of the low-treble bite from the hi-beams. I was thinking about trying the fat-beams next.

Anybody compare Dunlops (5-strings) to DR DDTs? The price seems nice. I might try the nickels.

Yes, the Dunlops are less like hi beams than the DDTs are, by a lot, so that sounds like a step in the wrong direction for you. The Dunlop Nickels are really really similar to Slinkys, XLs, Nickel Lo Riders, which to my hands and ears are all really similar to each other.
 
The Dunlop Nickels are really really similar to Slinkys, XLs, Nickel Lo Riders, which to my hands and ears are all really similar to each other.
Like Slinkys, feel wise, but not tone wise and not as close to D'Addario as you say either. D'Addario are stiffer feeling and more mid focused. The Lo-Riders are $#!+ in my opinion. I hated them. I have sets of all these strings sitting right here.

I agree with the GHS Boomer comment.
 
Yes, they're all a little bit different from each other but in terms of the wide world of strings they are adjacent shades of grey, IMO. Splitting hairs. That's odd you had a bad experience with the DRs ... maybe a bad/old set.

I think you did exactly the right thing -- just go buy one set of each and cycle through them. They're close enough that I would not bother removing a fresh set of one to replace it with another, and somebody might also make a bad choice that way. Put em on and go play some gigs. By the time you get some miles on them, you'll have a pretty good idea of which one "just feels right" and that particular bass. Each bass might like a different set or you may be the kind of guy that always wants to feel the same string.

To me, this decision is not on the same scale as steel vs nickel. flat vs. round. round core vs. hex. tapered vs. normal. These are all good quality hex core nickel strings in roughly the same brightness range, with boomers, fenders, TI, a couple meaningful steps mellower.