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G&L Club Part 7

#2,241
99Z3 said:
But my query is not about the tension of the strings.. but the strength of the join will improve the resonance of the tone. There are a lot of factors that play, the joint is just one of them.. this is why I wanted to know if anyone had tried it on the ASAT
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My response was primarily to your question about the strength of the neck joint:

99Z3 said:
My wonder is the joint.. being that it is only three screws.. I am curious if it will be strong enough!
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The answer to that is yes, the joint is strong enough. The quality of the feel - that's a whole nother can of worms I rarely open. I can't do 5s and rarely leave a bass in BEAD long enough to have an opinion or input. But I wouldn't hesitate to use an ASAT or any G&L for it.
 
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#2,242
dedpool1052 said:
Despite the negativity they get due to fender's poor execution, the 3-bolt neck design (when done right, like in G&L's case) is just as solid/rigid as a 4-6 bolt neck attachment.
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This ^

The 2 screws nearest the headstock take majority of the string induced load, the rest mainly provide lateral strength..

99Z3 said:
I am going to be very curious as to how well it will sound.
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Your string choice, amp and cab will probably have a lot more bearing on that than the number of screws in the neck joint.
 
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#2,243
craigb said:
My response was primarily to your question about the strength of the neck joint:



The answer to that is yes, the joint is strong enough. The quality of the feel - that's a whole nother can of worms I rarely open. I can't do 5s and rarely leave a bass in BEAD long enough to have an opinion or input. But I wouldn't hesitate to use an ASAT or any G&L for it.
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Craig, this is the reason that I am looking at doing this.. as I am getting older now.. it is getting a lil harder to do the five string basses now. Plus also, it makes no sense to me to continue to use a five string when the music that I am working on and will be playing I have yet to have used the "G" string.. So this should be a win-win situation for me!
 
#2,245
99Z3 said:
Fred, I am going to start off with the DR Low Riders and see how they will work. As for the amp, I am using a Ampeg SVT-7 Pro with two AudioKinesis Hathor 1203 cabinets.
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My apologies, you cannot tell with a new member whether they have top notch gear or some crappy little practice amp until they fill their profile info in. You obviously fall into the first group so ignore my comments above.
 
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#2,247
99Z3 said:
Well, It is looking like I will be picking this bass up tomorrow.. I will have to do a set up on the bass and also adjust the nut for the new strings.. I am going to be very curious as to how well it will sound.
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And you can offer yourself a new avatar, by the way... :D ;) :) :smug: :cool:

The issue when you go for bigger string gauge - and file the nut down - is that you can often get the first fret buzzing when going back to regular gauge, especially with low action... and then nothing can be done but a nut replacement or rising the saddle(s).
 
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#2,248
Glazenn said:
And you can offer yourself a new avatar, by the way... :D ;) :) :smug: :cool:

The issue when you go for bigger string gauge - and file the nut down - is that you can often get the first fret buzzing when going back to regular gauge, especially with low action... and then nothing can be done but a nut replacement or rising the saddle(s).
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Yeah, I think that I will be keeping the "avatar" like it is, even though the transmission was made over there! It has been a great car and my whole bass rig goes in it..

As for the nut, I realize that will be an issue only if I decide to return to a standard gauge of strings.
 
#2,249
99Z3 said:
Craig, this is the reason that I am looking at doing this.. as I am getting older now.. it is getting a lil harder to do the five string basses now. Plus also, it makes no sense to me to continue to use a five string when the music that I am working on and will be playing I have yet to have used the "G" string.. So this should be a win-win situation for me!
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I'm the opposite - I love fills on the G string so I think I'd have trouble living without one and for the groups I'm playing with these days low E is plenty. I keep thinking someday I'll set one up BEAD and leave it for when I want it (usually just for Eb & D occasionally) but have never left one that way. An ASAT should be great in BEAD - the dual MFD humbuckers are pretty darn massive just in EADG so they should be thunderous in BEAD. I did try a Trib L2500 for a short time and it was amazing down low. I look forward to seeing your reports on the new bass & conversion.
 
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#2,251
delta7fred said:
I thought I never played the G until I took my BEAD bass to a rehearsal and had a few "whoa, there's no string there" moments.
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There are some tunes that we do like Long TallWoman, and Rebel Rebel and a run that I do in Stand By me that I need the G string. plus I like the B string and will add a run into the G on the E string, and another run that I do in Paint It Black and lots more that I forget off-hand; I love me some 5 string obviously!
 
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#2,252
This is a question for L2000 and ASAT owners who use flats: what flats do you use? I'm thinking of trying Sadowsky Black Labels or D'Addario Chromes. Looking for a deep dub reggae tone (I have a k-switch to do the J-bass thing), and a thick, 70s-like neck pickup tone. If they overdrive nicely that's a bonus. I've been using TI-Jazz flats which "sing" nicely but don't have a ton of umph in the low mids.
 
#2,255
I'm a little late here. But, the discussion about the 2500 bridge lifting would not be complete without a link to the Bridge Mod.

L-2500 Bridge Mod

I did this to my 2500. I was not having any trouble with bridge lift. I can't say that I can really tell a difference in tone or sustain. But, I prefer to string top-load anyway, so I can easily move strings between different basses when I want. So, doing this mod seemed like it MIGHT help and there was no reason for me not to do it. It's totally, and easily, reversible.

For anyone with any concern about the 2500 bridge lifting, I think it's a no-brainer.

BTW, I definitely do not understand the discussion about strings that require thru-body stringing. Who/why would make bass guitar strings that only work if you string thru-body? If your issue is simply that you want to string thru-body because you're worried about bridge lift, then do the Bridge Mod and be done with it.
 
#2,257
The Dean Markley Helix exposed core strings are not just for string through, but if you top load, the exposed core goes across the bridge and you have to set up accordingly. If you run them string through, the wrapped part of the strings goes across the bridge for a comparable setup with most strings.
 
#2,259
99Z3 said:
Well went to get the ASAT, only to find out that it is on consignment, therefore I could not do a trade and pay, but it is on lay away and I will have it by the end of June.
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Huh. Interesting that the owner would be willing to let you tie up the bass for that long. Has it been hanging on the wall for a long time already?
 
#2,260
Iridescentone said:
Huh. Interesting that the owner would be willing to let you tie up the bass for that long. Has it been hanging on the wall for a long time already?
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Yes, it has been on the wall for a while, the owner had passed and the family was trying to sell it and some other basses, things are moving really slow around here where I am. Since they are working with me, I didn't try to negotiate the price any lower than it is. Price was 1K even for it out the door.
 

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