Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
- Start date
-
- Tags
- club
Warmoth wouldnt ever
I’ve tried for a stingray neck or trb
Why not just use Peavey necks ?
Ronnie had a 20 fret Milestone neck on a T-40 . BXP Millennium necks , if you can live with the rounded corners, fit Foundations and by extension Fury 2nd/3rd , Dyna bass, 1st gen Forum and Patriot basses.
4 and 5 string USA Grind bodies are problematic due to the neck pocket. In the Europe a Dynabass International Series neck could be used, 5 string would require a change of bridge position since they are only 34".
Outwith those any neck can be used, all you need is a router
thank you for saying “Peavey-ness”! This is definitely a real thing, and I feel it every time I pick one up. Can’t explain it, but it’s there….
Erik at warpedneck.com did the neck on my Fury for a very reasonable price. I now have the bass set up with .35-.90 strings with ultra-low action and it plays better than basses that cost 10x as much.
For $75, it’s definitely worth a try.
Oh I PLAN to ! I was just asking out of curiosity.Why not just use Peavey necks ?
Ronnie had a 20 fret Milestone neck on a T-40 . BXP Millennium necks , if you can live with the rounded corners, fit Foundations and by extension Fury 2nd/3rd , Dyna bass, 1st gen Forum and Patriot basses.
4 and 5 string USA Grind bodies are problematic due to the neck pocket. In the Europe a Dynabass International Series neck could be used, 5 string would require a change of bridge position since they are only 34".
Outwith those any neck can be used, all you need is a router
Peavey-ness ... the opposite of Peaved
I don't think your bass makes you look fat at all mb..although in my case between 40 - 70 y.o. my stomach grew quite a bit, but these days it helps me see the fingerboard at more of an easier upward angle loll
Last edited:
I have a 1985 Guild Pilot that has a great feeling neck, but those basses seem to be getting as rare as hens teeth.
I like Yamaha BB Series necks a lot, I also love my Yamaha Attitude necks, the quality of Yamaha punches way above their price range, just like Peaveys.
The 8 inch radius fretboard on the Peaveys feels right to me, like the old 7.25 radius on some of the old Fenders.
Yamaha has a 10 inch radius which works for me too.
Peavey fretboard edges feel like they've been rolled properly to make them feel smooth and comfortable.
I have figured out that neck width is not the key factor for me (I used to think it was) it seems to be the rolled edges and a not too flat fretboard radius are what does the trick.
My Guild and my Peaveys have a 1- 1/2 nut width, my MusicMan is at 1- 5/8, and my two Yamaha Attitude necks have 1- 11/16 which seems wide but they feel fantastic.
I also have a Squier CV 50's that feels chunky but is comfortable because they rolled the fretboard edges and the fretboard radius is good.
HAHA !!!!! You're awesome and it's very cool to see THE famous red, logo pup'd, Dyna in action.
Hello everyone! Just got back from a week vacation in beautiful and relaxed Costa Rica. Getting caught up in the Peavey-ness again. Missed my gear geekin' a bit!
There is a guy here in town that does great refins. If it's already painted, he charges about $450 for a solid color. $500+ for a bare body.
Another friend of mine that does refin work mentioned that any job under $300 is a financial loss for the labor and materials. He says it costs about $150-200 just for the good quality paints, etc... alone.
So cool! I played one of those TE heads and really liked it.
There is a guy here in town that does great refins. If it's already painted, he charges about $450 for a solid color. $500+ for a bare body.
Another friend of mine that does refin work mentioned that any job under $300 is a financial loss for the labor and materials. He says it costs about $150-200 just for the good quality paints, etc... alone.
Here ya go Michael B..the red devil..home-made Peavey logo's and all loll
Lolll..darn singers girlfriend..she liked to touch all the guy's instruments errrr
Yeah I misspoke about the ease of painting a bare wood body. I asked my paint guy what he preferred. It seems it’s easier to fix dings and sand back paint, then to seal and prep bare wood.
As for paint costs, my guy luckily has lots of leftover paint from his body work, and he can mix custom colors with stuff he has on hand. After that runs out, or if I want a special color, I’ll have to shell out more $$ and make it worthwhile by doing runs of say 3 basses at a time. It cost $100 for the candy brandywine we bought for the Zodiac.
My guy is really getting all the bugs worked out of his refin process!! This T-40 was a throwaway body, meaning heavily abused! He filled holes so I can mount a lightweight bridge, and many dings and scratches. He’s almost finished with the T-45 which was actually worse! It had names and stuff carved into the paint. Check the video.
https://youtube.com/shorts/EpkoGku2XEk?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/EpkoGku2XEk?feature=share
One option for pg material that I’m considering.
That color would look so good with a black pickguard. IMO.
I have to agree especially since there’s black in the Kopper Pearl. But, black is the typical T-40 pg material, so… I’m wanting it to be very unique. But, in the end, it needs to look “right”. So, who knows.
