OK. Here is the history:
1) G strings were thicker so they did not twang.
2) With the 7 1/2 inch crown radius, and that magnetic pole response varies as the square of the distance of the string from the top of the poles, D strings were made a gauge heavier for flat top pickups, such as the original J-bass pickups.
3) The A string is heavy enough. No adjustment necessary.
4) The E string tends to thump, so old sets had the E string a gauge lighter, both so with the increased mass they did not overpower the output, and to retain flexibility so the tone matched the rest of the set.
That is why the traditional Fender set was 50-100.
Now, to the present. Crown radius on basses is now generally (except for vintage reissues and such) between 10 for some 4-string basses to almost flat for some 5- and 6-string basses. That gets the middle strings closer to the pickup so they have more even response. Nobody cares how bright the G string is anymore compared to the rest of the strings. String technology has progressed to help modern E strings retain flexibility, and therefore consistent tone, through study of core diameter, core geometry (hex or round) and core to wrap ratio, and as with DR and others, multiple wraps.
So you can still purchase "traditional" gauge sets if you want the "traditional" feel, such as the Ernie Ball stainless flats sets, or any round set that advertises gauges of @ 45-65-80-100. I prefer a more balanced feel, so on my five-string I use a set of D'Addario 170BT with a 130 B string tuned up to C so my fingers feel the same tension and I can have consistent articulation string-to-string. With the consistent feel, I have consistent tone string-to-string.
Some players prefer progressive tension, whether from a more taut G string to the lesser tension E string, or vice versa. To trick your fingers into having the same feel, raise the E string a little higher than the crown radius may indicate. Since there is more mass on the E string, you won't lose any output, or if you think you do, you can adjust the pickup slightly. The extra effort, albeit almost imperceptible, to fret the E string with the slightly higher action will give the illusion of a consistent feel. Of course, you will have to re-intonate the bridge saddle backwards for the increased fretting height and string stretch.
The conclusion: there is no right or wrong. Use the set that fits the player's style, repertoire, and feel.