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Preamp/DI

If this is the case then I think the guy I play with has an a-typical trick fish tone. Very vintage-y and not a lot of treble.

I mean that does sound a little how I like my bass tone.

Definitely not handy with a soldering iron, haha! Thanks for the tip though.

Bass Player I played with tonight told me he played for years into just a Radial JDI. Without eq or comp. And he loved his tone. (Musical pit player)
Something to keep in mind is his strings. If he’s playing warm and dark broken in bass boomers or flats it’s going to show up on his trick fish preamp. A transparent and neutral preamp will only give you back what you put in so you can literally take the most HiFi preamp and warm the hell out of it and it’ll cop a vintage like tone. The beauty is being able to get both. The warmest and heaviest colored setups are limited to that 1 tone. The more neutral setups give you the most room to impart anything you want into it. You find this out as you start testing amps and preamps and find out what twisting knobs does vs does not do depending on the rest. I think between the genzler, mesa, mxr it’ll be hard to go wrong. Also the Aguilar tone hammer in case you see one in your budget. I used one for years to get me versatility between warmth and edgy heavy tones.

Double Bass Full Circle -> tuner pedal -> headway EDB-1 signal chain

Apparently the issue with piezo pick ups, and keeping a tuner pedal in the signal chain, is input impedance. Most tuners have a low input impedance which causes low end loss with piezos.

I have an original TC polytune that I tried in the signal chain and I did notice a small amount of low end loss. Subtle , but it was there.

Google AI is telling me that the Strobostomp will have better results because it has a 5 M ohm input impedance.

Has anyone tried the Strobostomp for this use, or have any other recommendations?
Input impedance doesn't matter when a true bypass pedal is bypassed. The signal goes directly from the input jack to the output jack, no extra circuitry involved besides a bit of extra wire.

My New Microtonal Bass!

This microtone stuff has paid off handsomely already, and it’s only been 1 1/2 days. I used to have perfect pitch, but with age it’s gone straight to hell. Relative pitch is still strong, but so based on the 12 tone scale that I wasn’t even recognizing that Khn was using quarter tones. He could do a chromatic quarter tone climb up and I’d hear it as half tones because I’m so used to it.

But thanks to getting to know what the quarter tones actually sound like, I’m getting better at identifying them as I hear them in ADP’s alien surf music. Got a long way to go, but at my age, keeping the mind active is a survival technique. Remains to be seen if it works, but I’m going out fighting…right after my Jackass Film Festival.

Headphones vs IEMs: muddy bandshell

Once a year I play a large outdoor gig in a tall cement bandshell. This year the subs were on the stage, and the stage sound was extremely muddy and loud ... drums, bass amp, subs, FOH, and reflections from the shell.


I use custom earplugs, and they work well for most bar/club gigs. But in this situation I had a hard time hearing the beat as a precise event. The kick and bass felt smeared across time, presumably from low-end buildup, reflections, and different arrival times from the subs, cab, monitors, and acoustic drums. The “one” felt like a wide zone instead of a clear point. Any small timing variance became hard to correct, and for much of the gig I felt like I was working just to stay locked.


I’ve tried IEMs before and found them fatiguing, even for passive listening. I’m wondering whether closed-back isolation headphones are a better solution for this kind of large-stage / low-end-smear situation.


Questions:


  1. Have any bass players here used closed-back isolation headphones instead of IEMs for loud outdoor stages?
  2. Did they help with time clarity, or did they create a different problem?
  3. Which models are actually suitable for live stage use?
  4. Would I be better off with a direct/preamp signal into a small personal headphone mixer, rather than relying on amp/cab/monitor wash?

I do need a full-band reference, not just “more bass” or only kick/snare/hat. The issue is that the stage sound was too smeared to be useful. I’m trying to get a clear, controlled monitor reference where I can hear the band and still feel the time as a precise thing instead of a low-end blur.
Yes I have and actually prefer them at times even for indoor rooms that are tough to work in due to building materials :) JBL brand lightweight and they
have great bass response :)
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Tell Me Your Theatre Pit Gig Experiences/Stories!

I hate to sub unprepared, because my sight reading is so weak. But I've found a new way to prepare for upcoming shows, as well as to practice reading more generally. There is a website that can convert online videos into MP3 files. So when I have a show to practice, I find the charts (there's a great book on FB for this) and print them out. I find the relevant videos and convert them. Then I play the MP3 files using an app that slows the tracks down and work my way up to the right tempos.

I used this approach when I had to sub for Mamma Mia at a local high school (which was a ton of work for one night subbing, but ...relationships). I pretty much nailed it the first time out with no rehearsal thanks to this approach. I even got a bonus!

Graphite stingray neck replacements …

Yes, sometime in the three years since I wrote what you quoted Kloss added bass necks to their product line.

And now there’s also Aurok Composites, who shipped their first bass necks last year. They seem a bit more open to doing custom work, but it’s hard to tell for certain.
Ahh thats the one who does custom orders I am mistaken, it wasn't Kloss at all..

I had seen Aurok a while back and got them mixed up.

I want to get 2+2 composite neck made..

Should Fender do a Jamerson signature Bass?

more authoritative info on the date being in '67?
He was still using that bass in this staged recording session in 1967. The bass is likely 1966. It's not a '65, because it already has the wider frets, and it's a slim chance that it's a 1967 because Fender overproduced a lot in 1966, and actual full 1967 P-basses are actually rather rare.
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THE AMAZING AFFORDABLE “MAKE THINGS EASIER” TOOL THREAD !

I’ll add a couple more. I had to plug a hole in a body I was working on. Plug cutters are good to have. I was able to make a nice side grain plug out of scrap cherry the body was cut from.

Theses are a little different from the ones I have but hopefully still good.


After gluing the plug(s) in a flush cut saw is also handy. Mine came from HD years ago and still works great.


I just picked up a cheap set of plug cutters off Amazon for about the same price (or less!) as what it would have cost to buy enough plugs to clean up the baseboards I'm prepping. For $15 it was a no-brainer.

Also, on that same note, buying the absolute cheapest low-grade pine 1x6s for this project probably wasn't the best choice. In hindsight I'd have been better off spending a little more to get the better grade "Clear" boards and not having to deal with all the knots and splits and holes and whatever else needs to get cleaned up before painting.

But at least now I had a reason to justify buying a set of plug cutters. lol

Two Notes Revolt Bass

The support team got back to me with another troubleshooting task. I'm happy to report that the ReVolt is not at fault here.

As it happens, the Darkglass Element is not designed to be used in an effects loop like a typical pedal. The 1/4 inch out on the pedal is just a passthrough. No wonder I couldnt hear a difference with it in the loop!

Ross, thanks for oyur help in this. I still think the ReVolt is a pretty good pedal. I need to figure out the best way to incorporate my Element. They sound very nice together.

SUNO - how bad is it?

I have used it to layer in a violin part I wanted to add to one of my songs I play the part on bass and had it comforter to violin worked out okay
It's a tool like any other sim out there it has limitation and it is not magic you got to put in the work in order for it to give you what you are trying to achieve
It doesn't create anything on it's own worth listening to IMO. I even wrote a song called Ai is not for us I dictated it into and email to myself and after I emailed it. It came back in the email that this email contains misinformation how Ai will effect businesses Which I actual read about in the Harford Business school news letter some professor had been asked how they felt Ai would affect the future. :) I was inspired by there take and wrote the song.

Jazz Bass bridge pickup - 60s and 70s spacing in one pickup with dual coil?

It is possible. But the width of the bobbin of a typical J-bass pickup is a little wider than the difference between 60's and 70's bridge pickup position. So you have to split the difference so that the front coil may be a little farther from the bridge than a 60's position, and the rear coil is a little closer to the bridge than the 70's position. This is problematic because you lose a little growl of the 60's position, and you lose a little fundamental from the coil being too close to the bridge in the 70's position.
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Rickenbacker 4003 Output Jack issues

Mr. John Hall recommended polishing the prongs of the jacks where they contact the plug of both the standard jack and the Ric-O-Sound jack with a simple pencil eraser to remove any traces of corrosion to assure proper contact. Don't use metal hand tools because of the risk of either scratching, taking off too much metal, or bending the prongs beyond repair.
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Jazz Bass "Semi-Series-Wiring"

I was thinking of using a 4-way rotary selector with 1)neck 2)bridge 3)parallel 4)series for a 2-pickup custom build that's in the queue but it occurred to me that I almost always run biased toward the neck or bridge pickup but rarely solo either one or play dead center. I prefer two separate volumes over volume/blend so I think this schematic would work well with two RWRP single coil pickups into the Trickfish IPA preamp I'll have with this build.
I reached out to Mo Mina at Nordstrand about building a rotary pickup selector that had trimpots so I could basically have presets like you mentioned.
  1. Series
  2. Neck solo
  3. 100% neck + ~80% bridge (parallel)
  4. ~80% neck + 100% bridge (parallel)
  5. Bridge solo
He said it was entirely doable, but I got rid of the project bass before getting the switch made.

Thoughts on the new Fender Japan models

Is this Ash sourced in Japan as well? The poor old Ash in my front yard looks like she's been had the better of by some emerald ash borers. Still hanging in there though! I'd take the burst over the black. An all natural would have been nice.
For the Japanese market they do in fact have a natural ash version. Of course some other unique offerings as well...

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