Club Moollon

[Twice19]

Most likely you'll need to get a fret dress—I certainly did with my brand new P4. I had buzzing on the A and D strings around the 5th fret, and my tech said (and I could see, when using a fret rocker/straight edge) there was a fret that was a bit high.

Where do you go in the city?

 

[unresolved]

Where do you go in the city?

I go to Gary Brawer; his shop is in the back of Real Guitars on Lafayette Street:

https://www.realguitars.com/repairs

Just spoke with them; because of the lockdown, his shop is not currently doing any work, and they're not sure when work will resume.

 

[600 Ohms]

DR Pure Blues - my fav everyday round.

DR Pure Blues, just like the P-IV, when I asked Andi.

Also, using DR Pure Blues, with excellent results.

One of the biggest things I noticed was how well the Pure Blues responded to EQ. Every adjustment I made was noticeable and produced a really nice and usable sound. Lmk if you try em. Would love to hear how you think the compare to the nickel lo riders since I haven't played them yet.

Happen to have a set of DR Pure Blues so put those on it was like "oh yeah, now I remember why I love this bass so much!" Now it just has so much growl and yet a really broad tonal range. And the feel is perfect - just the right amount of tension, not to stiff, not too floppy.

I don't think I've ever found such a perfect fit with rounds as I have with the Pure Blues on my P.

I spent a lot of money on both flats and rounds thinking I'd find something better and in the end the only two strings that'll ever be on this bass again are the Dunlops and the Pure Blues. Taste is 100% subjective and for my tastes YJ got it right.

You all were right, as is YJ. Pure Blues are winners on the P. Still love my Nickel Lo Riders, but on a P the PBs are just right. Very piano-like E. Right amount of mellow and clarity. Feel great, slightly less tension than NLR, but barely. Quite special on a P-Classic.

 

[uwrossl]

You all were right, as is YJ. Pure Blues are winners on the P. Still love my Nickel Lo Riders, but on a P the PBs are just right. Very piano-like E. Right amount of mellow and clarity. Feel great, slightly less tension than NLR, but barely. Quite special on a P-Classic.

HAHAHA....Nicely done on finding all those quotes. We all come to find out on our own terms that YJ did a bang up job matching up the strings. That was fun to read through.

 

[J.Wolf]

Ok, must try pure blues on the JV. Noted! Been using XL’s which I really like on it and the pure blues are in the same kinda vein. Will try those next

 

[FantasticFour]

Silly question probably but where do you buy a new Moollon (apart from SK)?

 

[davidak]

NBD "Pino" P:

Nicer pics and thoughts to come..

 

[J.Wolf]

Doooood

 

[Ultradust]

Silly question probably but where do you buy a new Moollon (apart from SK)?

Not a silly question at all About 90% of all Moollon bass sales are sold direct to customer. Message me with Moollon bass model/finish preference and I'll get back to you shortly.

 

[uwrossl]

NBD "Pino" P:

View attachment 3835370

Nicer pics and thoughts to come..

She's a beauty! Congrats on a great bass. Such a great day after the waiting when that package shows up. Had mine for about 8 months and haven't been able to put it down!

 

[FantasticFour]

Not a silly question at all About 90% of all Moollon bass sales are sold direct to customer. Message me with Moollon bass model/finish preference and I'll get back to you shortly.

Wow, thanks, that was easier than expected!
Due to current circumstances, I'll have to wait a bit before making a commitment.
But the one I have my eyes on would be a Classic P4 in Copper.

 

[600 Ohms]

Thought I'd ask, though ideally the info could come down from on high via @Ultradust !

What are YJ's setup specs?

I made a sizable truss rod adjustment (it was .015, and I got it down to .008) but I had a lot of trouble getting the first frets on the E and A strings of my 2018 J-5 not to buzz like a mother. I can usually manage to get all basses to between .006-.008 inches of relief and perform well, but in order to make the buzz go away, I had to bring the truss rod back to .013, and redid the action for 1.5mm on the high side, and 2.25mm on the low side, with a 12" radius gauge. Almost back to where I started.

Need for a fret dress? Sliding the straight edge towards the nut found it bumping all the frets but the first.

Knowing how YJ measures would also be helpful to know. I know everyone uses a different method, but I use a StewMac metal straight edge, which spans the 1st and 14th frets, and I use the 6th or 7th fret to slide the feeler gauges under. For action, I measure at the 12th fret, and hold the first fret down.

Particularly for you J-Fivers, are you able to get better performance than I am?

Turns out to just have needed another 8th of a turn of the truss rod. My local luthier said the bass is fine and I guess I'm adhering to "ideal numbers" too much.

Also, those paint can lid openers really are a great tool for those of us who want to avoid doing "the nasty".

 

[briandavismurph]

Doooood

fine looking specimen, was this a pre-owned or a relic? the bridge has some age to it and the nearby nitro with a beauty-mark

 

[briandavismurph]

Turns out to just have needed another 8th of a turn of the truss rod. My local luthier said the bass is fine and I guess I'm adhering to "ideal numbers" too much.

Also, those paint can lid openers really are a great tool for those of us who want to avoid doing "the nasty".

can you please send a pic of the paint can opener? I would think turning the truss rod without loosening and tilting the neck would be nerve wracking. My p-4 classic is in work now [hoping for june/july arrival ] and i decided not to get the optional pocket cut in the PG and the wood surrounding the truss rod screw. Was trying to keep to the vintage spec and was also being cheap in a sense.

 

[uwrossl]

can you please send a pic of the paint can opener? I would think turning the truss rod without loosening and tilting the neck would be nerve wracking. My p-4 classic is in work now [hoping for june/july arrival ] and i decided not to get the optional pocket cut in the PG and the wood surrounding the truss rod screw. Was trying to keep to the vintage spec and was also being cheap in a sense.

I wanted to keep the ease of adjustment in line along with the vintage look so opted for the channel under the pick guard. Quick removal of the pg makes adjustments easy. Don't have to loosen the neck at all or mess with that and when I put the pg back on it looks the part without having the channel visible. Good compromise.

 

[600 Ohms]

can you please send a pic of the paint can opener? I would think turning the truss rod without loosening and tilting the neck would be nerve wracking. My p-4 classic is in work now [hoping for june/july arrival ] and i decided not to get the optional pocket cut in the PG and the wood surrounding the truss rod screw. Was trying to keep to the vintage spec and was also being cheap in a sense.

It's this friend here:

'
My J has a semi-spherical rout which is just enough to get it in there if I remove the pickguard. Sadly, my P-Classic has no rout. The one I just ordered this week will have the rout under the pickguard, so it'll be hidden.

 

[briandavismurph]

It's this friend here:

'
My J has a semi-spherical rout which is just enough to get it in there. Sadly, my P-Classic has no rout. The one I just ordered this week will have the rout under the pickguard, so it'll be hidden.

Thanks for the info, I'm hoping I won't need to be tweaking it too much, I was struggling to see $150 value in the factory mod.

 

[SLO Surfer]

It's this friend here:

'
My J has a semi-spherical rout which is just enough to get it in there if I remove the pickguard. Sadly, my P-Classic has no rout. The one I just ordered this week will have the rout under the pickguard, so it'll be hidden.

I use the exact same thing. Walked up to the paint department in my local hardware store and asked for a paint can opener. They handed me one of these for free!

 

[TomB]

Back when I got my PV, YJ wasn’t offering the $150 route. I wanted one, so I went to my local luthier for it. He did a great job and I made it flat black. Here’s the thing - I’ve had the bass 3 years now in a 4-season climate, played hundreds of gigs with it, and I haven’t yet touched the truss rod.

 

[davidak]

fine looking specimen, was this a pre-owned or a relic? the bridge has some age to it and the nearby nitro with a beauty-mark

It is pre-owned 2012 model.

There is one thing which is very interesting on Moollons. All used moollons I had were already quite aged (both finish and hardware). I know they are thin nitro etc, but they seem to age much faster then another basses Fender AV for instance (nitro, similar hw).
Do you have the same experience? In fact, I love this on Moollons.

Some examples, not typical on other 8 years old basses: